Any feedback on this fuel fix gizmo ?

I hate dealing with Shift Tech. I've spent a ton of money with him since he had parts early last year, but his service and variable pricing is far below expectation.

The gizmo was probably my last purchase. I figured for $90 WTF.

Can't say I'm disappointed since I didn't expect much from him at this point.

It's still 90 bucks for a lie though, it is one thing to be unhappy with something and another thing totally that it 100% is a lie and doesn't do what you paid for in any way and never could.

No doubt.

Just got mine in the mail. Little disappointed after reading some of the relies here tbh but suppose that's my fault. Just to clarify, no check engine light if I were to install? I'm fairly certain I'll get the full termi system once I get my first service done so debating even installing at this point.

No check engine light. I still haven't ridden mine since the install. Probably remove it since I have a couple recalls to go in for.

Booster plug guy's email says there is probably fail safe checks in the ECU to compare IAT and the Ambient Temp and flag if there is a significant difference. One way to get around it would be to replace both thermistors / temp sensors to the same value.

Hypermono said:

Booster plug guy's email says there is probably fail safe checks in the ECU to compare IAT and the Ambient Temp and flag if there is a significant difference. One way to get around it would be to replace both thermistors / temp sensors to the same value.

Click to expand...

Can probably rule such a fail-safe out for the moment.

• There's a bunch of bikes out there running with this thing, a dash with a negative temp reading and the ECU 20+ above what the dash says; and looks like no errors.
• Can run the bike with the front unplugged. I don't think I've run more than an hour that way, but unlikely that it's a time thing.

But agreed, would be very simple to bypass if there was such a thing.

What evidence do you have that it does not work?

Have all of you tried it?

I ordered one and look forward to giving it a try.

I’ll report back my findings/actual experience in the coming weeks.

I have copied it and run with it. I didn't notice any difference (apart from a number on the dash), both in closed loop and open loop. I live in a warm country so it isn't some seasonal issue. This includes ride feel closed loop and open loop, temperature measurements of the headers, and the data being reported over OBD-II.

However, I'm very much not interested in that kind of evidence, it's too easy to counter with 'that's just your experience' or 'your opinion'. I'm only interested in hard evidence.

At the moment the choice is between

• The front sensor isn't part of the emissions control system (which is both inputs and outputs) as defined in the Euro 5 standard.
  • The bike is compliant with Euro 5
  • The device is a scam
• The front sensor is part of the emissions control system
  • Ducati are not reporting this sensor as mandated over OBD-II
  • Ducati are not logging an error as mandated when this sensor is disconnected
  • The bike is not Euro 5 compliant
  • The device does something (albeit immeasurable) and Ducati have a problem

That question was pushed to Ducati Italy and I'm still waiting for an answer.

I've got Ducati service techs telling me that the front sensor isn't part of the emissions system. We've got the owner of booster plugs agreeing that the testing performed confirms that the front connector is not part of the emissions system.

To be honest though, it's super easy to prove this yourself. Open up the cowl and unplug the temperature sensor and replace the cowl. You won't get an engine check light (yellow).

Go ride the bike. Was there a difference, worse, better? And the answer to that will be no. If the bike doesn't run any different in a 'failed' state, then why does this device magically work?

Even easier, just ask your local Ducati service tech what the front connector of your bike actually does.

The bike needs an ECU flash, and for that it needs time and effort for a company to dedicate to cracking the new ECU, and for that to happen there needs to be the pressure of enough people wanting to buy an ECU flash.

If a company is making some product as a quick fix, then that pressure is radically reduced. i.e. why buy a $xxx ECU flash when a $xx product get's you 75% of the way there. But that's a compromise that's always existed (PowerCommander vs ECU etc etc).

A scam product gets you 0% of the way there but still reduces the pressure to crack the ECU. The scam product doesn't just affect the purchaser, but everyone that is interested in improving the bike.

Adding up to the fuel / temp gizmo.

I am -autodidacting- myself regarding fuel maps, open and closed loop, wide and narrow band O2 sensors, temp sensors, Euro 5 OBD2 and so on.

My findings on the front temp sensor

In my opinion there is no connection between the sensor and ecu. No OBD readings or error lights on the dash.

Funny engineering of the years old sensor type in a 2024 released bike. By putting the sensor into a rubber basket like housing I think the engineers tried to dampen the temp readings to get a realistic ambient temperature reading on the dash. It works quite well.

My findings on my adjustable intake air temp sensor when engine running idle

See the screenshot below, the closed loop system overrules the temp readings directly.
Meaning when I switch the NTC giving correct or lower temp reading to the ecu, the ecu goed into compensating the short term fuel trim and soon after even the long term fuel trim.

So fooling the ecu is not working, maybe makes things even worse (more lean mixture) and needs the ecu to recalibrate.

The 6.8 kohm thermistor addapproximately 5% of fuel, therefore it seems the ecu to trim minus 5%.

No error readings on the dash so far.

I go with Mude to break in the ecu to be able to alter the fuel mapping to adjust the fuel mixture in closed (and open loop).

I will probably reconnect the original intake temp sensor. End of experiment for now, haha.

Thank you Iskandar. Your results with your experiment show

• The lower temperature from air box sensor caused the ECU to lookup a different value in the map and then in closed loop (idle in your case) the STFT was adjusted negative because of the O2 sensor feedback.
• This is expected behaviour.

I have a interesting update

I live in a warm climate, it's winter here, 29 degrees outside in the day.

If I plug my cloned device (front) I get to around 3C on the dash, the STFT reading does not change, it fluctuates around 0%. But that was to be expected if we hypothesise that the ECU is using the air box sensor for lookup values.

Now 26C is massive drop, more than other that I've seen (thermistors are not linear), but it's a relative value, it's not the -10C dash figure that was in the video for example.

After sniffing the CAN bus with an Arduino I found that the dash a) puts the front sensor reading on the bus with PID 0x0300 (first byte) and b) buts the value of 255 (which should be the error state) if the connector is unplugged. That means that the information is there if the ECU wants it.

So what if I just hard code a resistor to get the dash and the CAN value to -10C. A 10K + 6.8K resistor in series should do it if my maths is correct.

Dash now reads -9C, close.

Start the bike and the STFT NOW fluctuates around -5%! Similar to a modification to the air box sensor.

There's a few pieces of information that I've found research but parked.

70/220/EEC Amendment

3.2.1.2.A manufacturer may disable the OBD system at ambient engine starting temperatures below 266 oK (-7 oC) or at elevations over 2 500 metres above sea level provided the manufacturer submits data and/or an engineering evaluation which adequately demonstrate that monitoring would be unreliable when such conditions exist. A manufacturer may also request disablement of the OBD system at other ambient engine starting temperatures if he demonstrates to the authority with data and/or an engineering evaluation that misdiagnosis would occur under such conditions.

Click to expand...

The OBD system isn't disabled, but....

70/220/EEC Amendment:

Extended temperature conditions:

Greater than or equal to 266.15 K (– 7 °C) and lower than 273.15 K (0 °C) or greater than 303.15 K (30 °C) and lower than or equal to 308.15 K (35 °C).

Click to expand...

So no testing is required below -7C.

Is the front sensor acting as a binary switch? Below a temperature threshold the ECU switches into a different mode? It was still reporting closed loop at ide, but is that even true if we're in unregulated territory?

Tests for tomorrow: ride with the bike at -9C. Test a series of resistors to find the switch point.

If this is true, what this means is that this device would stop working at a specific (real) temperature, around 16C I think. Not good at all.

Mude said:

Thank you Iskandar. Your results with your experiment show

• The lower temperature from air box sensor caused the ECU to lookup a different value in the map and then in closed loop (idle in your case) the STFT was adjusted negative because of the O2 sensor feedback.
• This is expected behaviour.

I have a interesting update

I live in a warm climate, it's winter here, 29 degrees outside in the day.

If I plug my cloned device (front) I get to around 3C on the dash, the STFT reading does not change, it fluctuates around 0%. But that was to be expected if we hypothesise that the ECU is using the air box sensor for lookup values.

Now 26C is massive drop, more than other that I've seen (thermistors are not linear), but it's a relative value, it's not the -10C dash figure that was in the video for example.

After sniffing the CAN bus with an Arduino I found that the dash a) puts the front sensor reading on the bus with PID 0x0300 (first byte) and b) buts the value of 255 (which should be the error state) if the connector is unplugged. That means that the information is there if the ECU wants it.

So what if I just hard code a resistor to get the dash and the CAN value to -10C. A 10K + 6.8K resistor in series should do it if my maths is correct.

Dash now reads -9C, close.

Start the bike and the STFT NOW fluctuates around -5%! Similar to a modification to the air box sensor.

There's a few pieces of information that I've found research but parked.



The OBD system isn't disabled, but....



So no testing is required below -7C.

Is the front sensor acting as a binary switch? Below a temperature threshold the ECU switches into a different mode? It was still reporting closed loop at ide, but is that even true if we're in unregulated territory?

Tests for tomorrow: ride with the bike at -9C. Test a series of resistors to find the switch point.

If this is true, what this means is that this device would stop working at a specific (real) temperature, around 16C I think. Not good at all.

Click to expand...

Hi Mude,

I think I can follow your experiment and idea. Curious regarding about your results when riding the bike!

It is just below 0C tomorrow at my place, so I would get the front sensor below -7C with ease. Just for reference I will try to start the bike and check the fuel adjustments of the ecu at idle. I should get the same results.

Tested Stock vs resistor setting the dash at -10C.

When it was 30C outside: I couldn't tell any difference. Probably to be expected at this temperature?

When it was 24C outside: Possibly, some hard pulls from 3rd and 4th @4000 sounds a bit better, below that it still doesn't want to pull, so it's not turning it into a KTM; after 6000 it's into the same power zone. It's not some night and day experience. I'm even questioning myself whether it's different at all

If it is working, it's not like a booster plug and adjusting the map by 34-40C, that would be 20% extra fuel and it would run terrible. I absolutely have zero plans of plugging this resistor into the IAT connector.

The actual mechanism I don't have any great ideas, ignored lambda, cold weather map, magic beans...

Testing with the OBD/Can logger, if you switch the resistor before the bike has been off for 5 minutes, then the dash (and CAN message) will gradually decrease to the new resistor.

As soon as you it goes from -7 to -8 the O2 Fuel trim value goes about -5 extra negative for about 30 seconds (this is running idle btw, I'm not changing resistors whilst riding ).

I learned quite a bit from this thread! Special thanks to Mude and Iskandar!

For the moment I'm going to pause testing, it's extremely difficult to control the environment to do an A to B test. For example a drop from 30C to 25C (stock) is very obvious (to any rider), even though 6 hours has passed between.

Nothing is obvious when testing what is plugged into the dash, and there's still setup time between tests.

My experience simply does not mirror the 'obvious' results that these reviews state or the manufacturer implies, and 22C ( the lowest I have and can comparison test, at 1am) is not an unreasonable riding temperature.

I'm still going to continue to research, but it will be through industry contacts. For now I'll just leave this wildly incorrect statement made to me by the owner of shift tech.

It should not be connected to the sensor in the air box as that is a pressure sensor, it should be plugged into the sensor as per the description and is fully functional.

Click to expand...

BTW Guid if you're reading this, I'm not stupid, I backup my conversations.

Some corrections I need to make:

The value of 255 when the front sensor is unplugged is not an error state, it's actually a value of 215C (A-40), the maximum value in the range. This makes sense for a defect detect algorithm.

I could not replicate consistently the fluctuations in fuel trim when moving from -7C to -8C. Iskandar, if you performed such a test then it would be useful but I don't have any expectation of the results one way or another. This whole idea is prime to be debunked, it's a hypothesis that takes in the consideration of reviews above all other information.

Hypermono said:

Booster plug guy's email says there is probably fail safe checks in the ECU to compare IAT and the Ambient Temp and flag if there is a significant difference. One way to get around it would be to replace both thermistors / temp sensors to the same value.

Click to expand...

I was wrong to rule this out.

Hi all,

I think I have some interesting findings to share.

But first of all, kudos for the forum and participation of the members. Especially a thank you for our Hypermotard King for all his Youtube posts and encouraging all of us to post our research. I think Mr King has a point in feeling a different and better throttle response with using the ambient air temp sensor modification plug. More on a diy device later.



Based upon the findings of Mude, I think I was indeed wrong in thinking the ambient air temp sensor had no connection with the ecu.

So what I did: opened up the front fairing, unplugged the air temp sensor and put in a 10k thermistor in the male connector two holes. No need for alternative connectors (more on that later).

Took the bike outside, air temp outside 5C. The bike got in contact with very fine snowfall for the first time yo ho..

With the 10k thermistor I got minus 18/19C on the dash, Artic territory, no ****.


Started the bike and checked the OBD readings. See the stored LTFT based on my first intake air temp sensor experiment. No good..


- Cold start and first part of warm up, no fuel compensation.
- When the engine got warmer, negative STFT started.
- When the engine temp raised further, the STFT got less, towards 0%.
- The LTFT goes negative.


- Engine temp raised further and after approx 65C the ecu stared adding fuel/positive short term fuel trim.
- Engine warm at approx 85C and the STFT constantly added between 3.5% and 5% of fuel.
- LTFT stays negative. Not fully clear to me what is happening i.r.t the STFT (see also the graphics in red below)?


I think this is the status which could be experienced by the Hypermotard King.

But wait, there is more. See below. When I switched my diy intake air temp sensor to -8C the ecu instantly started trimming down fuel/negative fuel trim again.
3

And vice versa.


First possible conclusions:
- I am a newbie on this topic so my conclusions may be wrong.
- The front air temp sensor is connected to the ecu.
- It may indeed be the case the ecu goes into a different mode beyond -7C or -8C reading of the front air temp sensor and goes into closed loop positive fuel trim when engine reaches its operating temperature.
- There seems to be no OBD reading of the ambient air temp front sensor. See below.

- The low reading of the air intake temp sensor overrides the -different ecu ‘fraitsens’ (front air temp sensor) modus- of the freezing front air temp sensor.

My next steps:
- Remove my diy alternative switchable intake air temp sensor, because it does not fool the ecu.
- Design a 5 €/$/£ ‘fraitsens’, using a 10k thermistor, shrink tube and tyraps. No new connector is needed, but this connector is also highly likely not available on the market.
- Design a 10 €/$/£ switchable ‘deluxe fraitsens’, using electrical wire, a 10k thermistor, a dpdt switch, and shrink tube and tyraps. With this device you can switch between the original air temp sensor or the 10k thermistor.
- Start riding my bike end of February (winter stop insurance) with the fraitsens and see what it feels like.
- Keep you posted.

I appreciate all your testing! Thanks for sharing!

Iskandar, please can you tell me that you also went out riding the bike on the same day with the stock configuration? And if so was the difference obvious between runs?

The elephant in the room is that the 10K Thermistor will not be able to achieve -7/-8 in the months of April to October.