Any feedback on this fuel fix gizmo ?

I hate dealing with Shift Tech. I've spent a ton of money with him since he had parts early last year, but his service and variable pricing is far below expectation.

The gizmo was probably my last purchase. I figured for $90 WTF.

Can't say I'm disappointed since I didn't expect much from him at this point.

It's still 90 bucks for a lie though, it is one thing to be unhappy with something and another thing totally that it 100% is a lie and doesn't do what you paid for in any way and never could.

No doubt.

Just got mine in the mail. Little disappointed after reading some of the relies here tbh but suppose that's my fault. Just to clarify, no check engine light if I were to install? I'm fairly certain I'll get the full termi system once I get my first service done so debating even installing at this point.

No check engine light. I still haven't ridden mine since the install. Probably remove it since I have a couple recalls to go in for.

Booster plug guy's email says there is probably fail safe checks in the ECU to compare IAT and the Ambient Temp and flag if there is a significant difference. One way to get around it would be to replace both thermistors / temp sensors to the same value.

Hypermono said:

Booster plug guy's email says there is probably fail safe checks in the ECU to compare IAT and the Ambient Temp and flag if there is a significant difference. One way to get around it would be to replace both thermistors / temp sensors to the same value.

Click to expand...

Can probably rule such a fail-safe out for the moment.

• There's a bunch of bikes out there running with this thing, a dash with a negative temp reading and the ECU 20+ above what the dash says; and looks like no errors.
• Can run the bike with the front unplugged. I don't think I've run more than an hour that way, but unlikely that it's a time thing.

But agreed, would be very simple to bypass if there was such a thing.

What evidence do you have that it does not work?

Have all of you tried it?

I ordered one and look forward to giving it a try.

I’ll report back my findings/actual experience in the coming weeks.

I have copied it and run with it. I didn't notice any difference (apart from a number on the dash), both in closed loop and open loop. I live in a warm country so it isn't some seasonal issue. This includes ride feel closed loop and open loop, temperature measurements of the headers, and the data being reported over OBD-II.

However, I'm very much not interested in that kind of evidence, it's too easy to counter with 'that's just your experience' or 'your opinion'. I'm only interested in hard evidence.

At the moment the choice is between

• The front sensor isn't part of the emissions control system (which is both inputs and outputs) as defined in the Euro 5 standard.
  • The bike is compliant with Euro 5
  • The device is a scam
• The front sensor is part of the emissions control system
  • Ducati are not reporting this sensor as mandated over OBD-II
  • Ducati are not logging an error as mandated when this sensor is disconnected
  • The bike is not Euro 5 compliant
  • The device does something (albeit immeasurable) and Ducati have a problem

That question was pushed to Ducati Italy and I'm still waiting for an answer.

I've got Ducati service techs telling me that the front sensor isn't part of the emissions system. We've got the owner of booster plugs agreeing that the testing performed confirms that the front connector is not part of the emissions system.

To be honest though, it's super easy to prove this yourself. Open up the cowl and unplug the temperature sensor and replace the cowl. You won't get an engine check light (yellow).

Go ride the bike. Was there a difference, worse, better? And the answer to that will be no. If the bike doesn't run any different in a 'failed' state, then why does this device magically work?

Even easier, just ask your local Ducati service tech what the front connector of your bike actually does.

The bike needs an ECU flash, and for that it needs time and effort for a company to dedicate to cracking the new ECU, and for that to happen there needs to be the pressure of enough people wanting to buy an ECU flash.

If a company is making some product as a quick fix, then that pressure is radically reduced. i.e. why buy a $xxx ECU flash when a $xx product get's you 75% of the way there. But that's a compromise that's always existed (PowerCommander vs ECU etc etc).

A scam product gets you 0% of the way there but still reduces the pressure to crack the ECU. The scam product doesn't just affect the purchaser, but everyone that is interested in improving the bike.

Adding up to the fuel / temp gizmo.

I am -autodidacting- myself regarding fuel maps, open and closed loop, wide and narrow band O2 sensors, temp sensors, Euro 5 OBD2 and so on.

My findings on the front temp sensor

In my opinion there is no connection between the sensor and ecu. No OBD readings or error lights on the dash.

Funny engineering of the years old sensor type in a 2024 released bike. By putting the sensor into a rubber basket like housing I think the engineers tried to dampen the temp readings to get a realistic ambient temperature reading on the dash. It works quite well.

My findings on my adjustable intake air temp sensor when engine running idle

See the screenshot below, the closed loop system overrules the temp readings directly.
Meaning when I switch the NTC giving correct or lower temp reading to the ecu, the ecu goed into compensating the short term fuel trim and soon after even the long term fuel trim.

So fooling the ecu is not working, maybe makes things even worse (more lean mixture) and needs the ecu to recalibrate.

The 6.8 kohm thermistor addapproximately 5% of fuel, therefore it seems the ecu to trim minus 5%.

No error readings on the dash so far.

I go with Mude to break in the ecu to be able to alter the fuel mapping to adjust the fuel mixture in closed (and open loop).

I will probably reconnect the original intake temp sensor. End of experiment for now, haha.

Thank you Iskandar. Your results with your experiment show

• The lower temperature from air box sensor caused the ECU to lookup a different value in the map and then in closed loop (idle in your case) the STFT was adjusted negative because of the O2 sensor feedback.
• This is expected behaviour.

I have a interesting update

I live in a warm climate, it's winter here, 29 degrees outside in the day.

If I plug my cloned device (front) I get to around 3C on the dash, the STFT reading does not change, it fluctuates around 0%. But that was to be expected if we hypothesise that the ECU is using the air box sensor for lookup values.

Now 26C is massive drop, more than other that I've seen (thermistors are not linear), but it's a relative value, it's not the -10C dash figure that was in the video for example.

After sniffing the CAN bus with an Arduino I found that the dash a) puts the front sensor reading on the bus with PID 0x0300 (first byte) and b) buts the value of 255 (which should be the error state) if the connector is unplugged. That means that the information is there if the ECU wants it.

So what if I just hard code a resistor to get the dash and the CAN value to -10C. A 10K + 6.8K resistor in series should do it if my maths is correct.

Dash now reads -9C, close.

Start the bike and the STFT NOW fluctuates around -5%! Similar to a modification to the air box sensor.

There's a few pieces of information that I've found research but parked.

70/220/EEC Amendment

3.2.1.2.A manufacturer may disable the OBD system at ambient engine starting temperatures below 266 oK (-7 oC) or at elevations over 2 500 metres above sea level provided the manufacturer submits data and/or an engineering evaluation which adequately demonstrate that monitoring would be unreliable when such conditions exist. A manufacturer may also request disablement of the OBD system at other ambient engine starting temperatures if he demonstrates to the authority with data and/or an engineering evaluation that misdiagnosis would occur under such conditions.

Click to expand...

The OBD system isn't disabled, but....

70/220/EEC Amendment:

Extended temperature conditions:

Greater than or equal to 266.15 K (– 7 °C) and lower than 273.15 K (0 °C) or greater than 303.15 K (30 °C) and lower than or equal to 308.15 K (35 °C).

Click to expand...

So no testing is required below -7C.

Is the front sensor acting as a binary switch? Below a temperature threshold the ECU switches into a different mode? It was still reporting closed loop at ide, but is that even true if we're in unregulated territory?

Tests for tomorrow: ride with the bike at -9C. Test a series of resistors to find the switch point.

If this is true, what this means is that this device would stop working at a specific (real) temperature, around 16C I think. Not good at all.