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Adventures in Hypermotard Tuning...

I wasn't aware they'd custom make a tune on the T800, when I got mine I told them the slip on I had and they advised on the closest available tune to download, which was a a tune for Starace's airbox with the stock pipe. Funny enough I've put the stock pipe on recently due to some issues with the slip on and the bike runs slightly better., Too bad the stock pipe is so ugly as I'm otherwise really happy with it.
 
I wasn't aware they'd custom make a tune on the T800, when I got mine I told them the slip-on I had and they advised on the closest available tune to download, which was a tune for Starace's airbox with the stock pipe. Funny enough I've put the stock pipe on recently due to some issues with the slip-on and the bike runs slightly better., Too bad the stock pipe is so ugly as I'm otherwise really happy with it.
Yea to be honest I'm not sure how custom of a map it is. It might just be telling them what exhaust and intake you are running. And they get you a close map. The Project SC S1 pipe comes with a mid-pipe as well that deletes the flapper valve. It's a loud pipe with tons of pops. I had to stick a baffle in it because it's so loud. It also changes the air quite a bit. There is a separate fuel controller by Project SC you are supposed to buy separately for it. Or go the rapid bike route. I should have tuned the bike at the same time. The problem with stock is the weight... SOO heavy. I have to put mine back on come emissions check time :0
 
Saken, I am really happy with the Evo. Ditto if you add the quick shifter, which I'm in love with. Hadn't used the software in a while and they have added a lot of new functions. The map on this thread made by Kuksul is fabulous. I would say being able to reset the TPS with the Rexxer is nice, but not enough to make me ditch my Evo.
 
Saken, I am really happy with the Evo. Ditto if you add the quick shifter, which I'm in love with. Hadn't used the software in a while and they have added a lot of new functions. The map on this thread made by Kuksul is fabulous. I would say being able to reset the TPS with the Rexxer is nice, but not enough to make me ditch my Evo.
I just bought it so im looking forward to tuning. Is kuls map still available to download? The dropbox download link is dead now. And I dont think the tune it will come with will be anywhere near where I want it. I got mine from wrs.it, it was on sale and way cheaper than from the US. Do you think any of the other separate add ons are worth it besides the quick shifter? Like the bluebike bluetooth thing?
 
I just bought it so im looking forward to tuning. Is kuls map still available to download? The dropbox download link is dead now. And I dont think the tune it will come with will be anywhere near where I want it. I got mine from wrs.it, it was on sale and way cheaper than from the US. Do you think any of the other separate add ons are worth it besides the quick shifter? Like the bluebike bluetooth thing?
It's not really a "download" type of situation here. You follow through step by step and change the values and settings. It takes some time if you aren't able to just cut n paste the actual map values for each throttle %. In the end it is a very strong mapping. Over time I turned on the auto tune and limited howmuch it was allowed to interfere to a very narrow window.
 
I just bought it so im looking forward to tuning. Is kuls map still available to download? The dropbox download link is dead now. And I dont think the tune it will come with will be anywhere near where I want it. I got mine from wrs.it, it was on sale and way cheaper than from the US. Do you think any of the other separate add ons are worth it besides the quick shifter? Like the bluebike bluetooth thing?

Like Araitim said, you just ham-jam it yourself. And the interface has been changing slightly so can't say whether it will be as straight forward as it was when he posted it years ago. Quick shifter is a very cool option. I almost piss myself clicking millisecond shifts from 2nd-6th at full chat. If the bluebike is a live diagnostics thing, maybe but I wouldn't know what to do with the data. The auto adaptive feature was great but, Kuksul's map really brought it to life. I hooked up to my Evo a couple weeks ago to check the map and tweak the shifter settings and noticed there's a new "Throttle Calibration" tool. The values changed a bit when I performed it but didn't notice anything on the road (low end value went from 0.46 to 0.70).

Wish it had a TPS reset feature. Rexxer definitely has a leg up there.
 
It's not really a "download" type of situation here. You follow through step by step and change the values and settings. It takes some time if you aren't able to just cut n paste the actual map values for each throttle %. In the end it is a very strong mapping. Over time I turned on the auto tune and limited howmuch it was allowed to interfere to a very narrow window.
Tim, can you elaborate a bit on "limited how much it was allowed to interfere"? Did you notice anything when turning auto tune on over Kuksul's map? I did it a couple times in the past but didn't notice any difference. I believe I toggled the O2 bypass setting, also with no perceived change.
 
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Tim, can you elaborate a bit on "limited how much it was allowed to interfere"? Did you notice anything when turning auto tune on over Kuksul's map? I did it a couple times in the past but didn't notice any difference. I believe I toggled the O2 bypass setting, also with no perceived change.
In mid Michigan I ride year round so it will range from 100°f to -20°f(I will only ride if it's +30° and up). I figured that the time might need a little help since I ride in such a huge range of temps so I turned the auto tune back on. In this setting you can set limits to how much it can adjust from Kull's map. It gos in single digit increments. I believe I had it set to allow it to go up to +2 and as low as -2 . This means that the base tune of Kul is still there but the auto tune can only interfere a maximum of +2 to -2. You can change this setting to whatever values you would like. Also.....we may have a maintenance and ECU connect. Came across Lonelec, they sell cables with different chip sets in them to connect into our diagnostic port and view stuff on a laptop. So far I'm able to read and clear any codes my bike has accumulated as well as turn on/off the fan with the bike sitting there. I'm still figuring the rest but it's not 100% functional yet. It is tricky to get it all up n running and in the right place(have to download things to certain files and what not). I just want to be able to reset TPS, clear n read codes and reset maintenance counter. Funny story....Ducati Detroit has been paid numerous times to clear codes and never cleared them. Codes from when I ran the bike with the exhaust servo unplugged and other things a few years ago. Funny how places like this are when they think you have no way of checking their work.
 
So it's my understanding that he didn't upload a file from the Rapidbike software to load onto yours, but he just posted screenshots of his settings in the Rapid bike Evo software, and you guys just copied them and input them manually on yours? These are the same pictures of the graphs shown on Page 2 of this thread?
 
So it's my understanding that he didn't upload a file from the Rapidbike software to load onto yours, but he just posted screenshots of his settings in the Rapid bike Evo software, and you guys just copied them and input them manually on yours? These are the same pictures of the graphs shown on Page 2 of this thread?
Correct but he went through great lengths to get the map that he has shared with us, having welded wide band O2 sensor bungs on his exhaust, mounting a data logger and then hours of calculating the values at every specific point. Then running it, logging more data and crunching the numbers again.
 
And made the sexiest hyper lighting kit in his down time...man, he should have been on payroll.

Tim, grazie for the auto tune limiter explanation. I'll check that out. Is it a single setting or for each gear, an rpm range, etc.?

Keep me posted on the ECU flasher. Good luck in not bricking your ECU. Expensive fix.
 
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So, thought my found loose shifter linkage was causing my misfires under load. Still had it after tightening things up. Now, I did mess with the shifter settings a bit on my last wrench fest so decided to go back to the software.

I found a decent DIMSPORT leaflet on setting a similar kit. The Italian-to-English translation was per usual less than clear, but I think I'm back to spec and hope it's good on tomorrows ride. For reference, I get a stutter/misfire in any gear, somewhat randomly but definitely with more than moderate throttle. Certainly feels like the shifter is killing timing. Shifter still works great.

Another interesting note for the Evo software: I was playing in all the settings and will try out Araitim's auto adaptive tweak above. Went back to "Throttle Calibration" and feel stupid, but, it definitely expects you to open the throttle all the way. First time I ran this I just let it idle. Stupid now that I look back. The value changed greatly. Not sure what affect this will have as it seemed the same after I found the test the first time and probably did it wrong.
 
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In mid Michigan I ride year round so it will range from 100°f to -20°f(I will only ride if it's +30° and up). I figured that the time might need a little help since I ride in such a huge range of temps so I turned the auto tune back on. In this setting you can set limits to how much it can adjust from Kull's map. It gos in single digit increments. I believe I had it set to allow it to go up to +2 and as low as -2 . This means that the base tune of Kul is still there but the auto tune can only interfere a maximum of +2 to -2. You can change this setting to whatever values you would like. Also.....we may have a maintenance and ECU connect. Came across Lonelec, they sell cables with different chip sets in them to connect into our diagnostic port and view stuff on a laptop. So far I'm able to read and clear any codes my bike has accumulated as well as turn on/off the fan with the bike sitting there. I'm still figuring the rest but it's not 100% functional yet. It is tricky to get it all up n running and in the right place(have to download things to certain files and what not). I just want to be able to reset TPS, clear n read codes and reset maintenance counter. Funny story....Ducati Detroit has been paid numerous times to clear codes and never cleared them. Codes from when I ran the bike with the exhaust servo unplugged and other things a few years ago. Funny how places like this are when they think you have no way of checking their work.
Tim,
Have you got JPDIAG working for the strada ECU? For some reason my LONELC bluetooth module that I had working on my Motard 796 wont connect to the darn software again.
I was thinking of registering the strada ECU and using that to reset the codes and service bits when needed.
 
Tim,
Have you got JPDIAG working for the strada ECU? For some reason my LONELC bluetooth module that I had working on my Motard 796 wont connect to the darn software again.
I was thinking of registering the strada ECU and using that to reset the codes and service bits when needed.
I have been able to use it successfully one time. I could connect and see codes and clear codes but after that I could not. I contacted jpdiag guy and he said he is still working on the TPS and maintenance counter reset feature. He also said I need to delete the license and reattach it to the program to see if that resolves the connectivity issue. Also, you should be using Melcodiag for the hyper, jpdiag is the base program while Melcodiag is the evolution for the newer bikes from what I understand. Melcodiag is how I connected. I seen a whole bunch of info I never seen before. I also seen that Ducati Detroit did not do what I paid them to do 2 different times.
 
Dude, I'm stuck again. My QS is chattering on the cogs and consistently misses under high load. I tightened up the loose nuts and took it pretty much back to default. The only thing that changed since it was working great was I got a new set of boots. To recap, QS was working phenomenally after install. Soon noticed random misfires which felt like timing being held from the QS being toO sensitive. Then noticed the lock nuts on the load sensor were loose. Must be the source. No problem, just tighten those up and adjust the sensitivity a bit (also did an oil change but that's not relevant).

Next ride, it's dragging gears with normal force and missing shifts often. And my new boots are way more sturdy so shifts should be much more direct. Before, just nice easy rows up the cogs. Now, I'm cranking it and it's still going false neutral at WOT. This fucking bike...FRANCESCA!!!
 
I am having the exact same issue right now. Sometimes my QS won't work at all. If I turn the bike off then back on it usually fixes it. I tried a new load cell from RB. Yesterday I started messing with the power wire for the tuner itsself. I'm thinking all the issues are being caused by that. It is the wire that connects to the rear brake light switch. I havnt taken it out yet to verify but I seen corrosion on the pins. I bought a connector kit, cut back the black wire, soldered and heat shrink the posative that gos to the tuner. Then I took the other wires and put them into the new connector and connected it to the rear brake light switch like normal. We will see how it works out.
 
My setup hasn't even been rained on. Maybe 1 month of installed use. I can tell something is working correctly as pressure for downshift does nothing and triggering the load sensor on upshift cuts timing. When I was troubleshooting yesterday, the load capacitance tab showed volts hovering around 2.5. Should this be 0 for static/ no load? Would increase slightly when I pulled on the shifter. The meter was constantly fluttering around 2.5. So, the tuner box is registering input. I did not unplug the QS but did all the software resets.
 
My setup hasn't even been rained on. Maybe 1 month of installed use. I can tell something is working correctly as pressure for downshift does nothing and triggering the load sensor on upshift cuts timing. When I was troubleshooting yesterday, the load capacitance tab showed volts hovering around 2.5. Should this be 0 for static/ no load? Would increase slightly when I pulled on the shifter. The meter was constantly fluttering around 2.5. So, the tuner box is registering input. I did not unplug the QS but did all the software resets.
The RB doesn't cut ignition timing, it does it's work cutting fuel(the race module only cuat fuel on upper injectors in bikes with upper n lowers). Im not a 100% sure on the voltage passing through. When plugged into a laptop and running the RB program you see the power level of the load cell is not at the beginning of the spectrum but when you push n pull is fluctuates. I would think it would need X about of voltage all the time but when pressed one way or another make that value go up n down. The RB load cell is a true load cell (the preferred type)and not and on/off switch like some others use. This allows the system to know if you are pressing lightly or not. There is a setting that you can turn on that protects the motor during shifts called "Auto cutoff" . It takes the guess work out of things and only let's the system function for exactly as long as needed. I would try toggling that setting and see what happens. Try on and run it then off. Being that it controls the fuel, my bike is sputtering during 4-5krpm, Melcodiag diagnosis is saying '#1 cylinder is lean' and my QS is acting up makes me believe it's a power issue to either the injector or to the tuner n QS. I was contemplating installing the PC5 with add on Auto tune module(comes with wide band O2 sensors the needs to be welded to exhaust) and a IRC QS. I have the PC5 and auto tune module sitting on my shelf(came across a insane deal on it new, something like $150 for all) but I would need the IRC QS. It might give me more detail on what is going on. Plus the ignition QS is said to be better(probably no difference for a street bike but I can't keep the RB QS if I install the PC5)Screenshot_20210925-082506_Yahoo Mail.jpgScreenshot_20210925-082554_Yahoo Mail.jpg
 
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Tim, I read a very similar manual on last diagnosis and turned on Auto cut-off. My load cell bar was right in the middle static, and responded to push/pull pressure, albeit very slight on push. What worried me is in the QS manual it stated a static measure of 4.5V, I believe. Mine was only registering 2.5-ish. I very recently turned the sensitivity down a tad bit more from default and it's still missing shifts and just not behaving like it did when first installed. I'm gonna unplug it on my ride home tonight.

Dibs on your RB Evo if you pull it. I've been suspect of mine for a while. Thanks again for the help.
 
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