Joined Jan 2015
465 Posts | 2+
Victoria BC Canada
For all you 821/939 Hypers out there, here's a quick and dirty guide to removing and installing the clutch cable on your bike. For the most part its pretty straight forward, but I figured I'd add this to the databank on this site.
Total time it took me to complete the swap was about 30 mins (including taking photos)
Tools you'll need:
5mm T-handle
5mm Allen Wrench
4mm Allen Wrench
3mm Allen Wrench
1 inch Crescent Wrench
24mm Wrench
Not pictured is a beer.
Optional Step 1: Remove the RH side tank cover. I only removed it for ease of taking photos, but there should be enough room to work with it still in place.
Step 2: Start off by removing the clutch cable clamp bolt, and the two bolts holding the headlight pod into place. Marked on the picture below:
Step 3: Pull straight up on the headlight assembly to disconnect it from the two rubber grommets on the upper triple tree. This will give you a little room to work without damaging the wiring behind that headlight. If it's the first time it's been removed, it'll require a little force. One of the two grommets are pictured below:
Step 4: Now Remove the cable from the clutch arm clevis on the engine case. To do this I used a crescent (adjustable) wrench and rotated the arm CCW to allow the cable to be disconnected. After you have the cable disconnected remove the bolt and clutch cable retainer bracket marked in the photo.
Step 5: Now go back to the handlebar and make a mental note of how the adjuster appeared before you touched it then rotate the adjuster just enough to align the slot with the clutch lever perch. Once the slot is aligned, withdraw the cable from the lever and perch.
Step 6: Now start to withdraw the cable from the bike. You pretty much have to untangle the clutch cable from the mess of headlight wiring, then remove the cable clamp, then feed the cable out of the bike. Everything will exit the bottom of the machine. It's kinda a PITA to do because of the hard section on the cable assembly won't allow it to happen any other way.
Optional Step 7: Beer o'clock 1/2 way there.
Step 7: Compare the length of both the outer shielding and how much the cable protrudes from the shielding. Try to make the new cable match the old setup.
Step 8: Start feeding the new clutch cable into the engine compartment. Pay note that the cable MUST pass behind (or inboard) of the Crank Case vent line (pictured below). Once the cable is around the vertical cylinder head, make the 90 degree corner and start feeding the cable towards the front of the bike just inboard of the trellis frame.
Step 9: With the clutch cable pointing straight out the frame near the radiator, install the clutch cable clamp removed in Step 2. Now install the Cable retaining bracket removed in Step 4 on the engine case. WARNING It's a real SOB to do it behind the header pipe.
Step 10: Now feed the cable behind the headlight assembly, making sure you're not pinching any wires, and that it rests in the slot on the backside of the headlight assembly. (it's the red-ish coloured one in the picture)
Step 10: Now reinstall the cable into the clutch lever and perch on the bars, then rotate the adjuster to approximately where it was before you touched it.
Step 11: Again using the crescent wrench, rotate the clutch arm CCW to reinstall the cable into the clutch arm on the engine case.
Step 12: Reinstall the headlight assembly and the fuel tank side cover if you removed it. A little trick, a little dish soap or lube goes a LONG way with the two headlight grommets. They sometimes can be a PITA. Don't forget to reinstall the two little bolts underneath the headlight assembly.
ANNNNNNNNDDDDD Done. Go enjoy the light feeling clutch again (if you didn't have too many at optional step 7 ).. Don't forget to check that your clutch engages properly before playing in traffic.
Total time it took me to complete the swap was about 30 mins (including taking photos)
Tools you'll need:
5mm T-handle
5mm Allen Wrench
4mm Allen Wrench
3mm Allen Wrench
1 inch Crescent Wrench
24mm Wrench
Not pictured is a beer.
Optional Step 1: Remove the RH side tank cover. I only removed it for ease of taking photos, but there should be enough room to work with it still in place.
Step 2: Start off by removing the clutch cable clamp bolt, and the two bolts holding the headlight pod into place. Marked on the picture below:
Step 3: Pull straight up on the headlight assembly to disconnect it from the two rubber grommets on the upper triple tree. This will give you a little room to work without damaging the wiring behind that headlight. If it's the first time it's been removed, it'll require a little force. One of the two grommets are pictured below:
Step 4: Now Remove the cable from the clutch arm clevis on the engine case. To do this I used a crescent (adjustable) wrench and rotated the arm CCW to allow the cable to be disconnected. After you have the cable disconnected remove the bolt and clutch cable retainer bracket marked in the photo.
Step 5: Now go back to the handlebar and make a mental note of how the adjuster appeared before you touched it then rotate the adjuster just enough to align the slot with the clutch lever perch. Once the slot is aligned, withdraw the cable from the lever and perch.
Step 6: Now start to withdraw the cable from the bike. You pretty much have to untangle the clutch cable from the mess of headlight wiring, then remove the cable clamp, then feed the cable out of the bike. Everything will exit the bottom of the machine. It's kinda a PITA to do because of the hard section on the cable assembly won't allow it to happen any other way.
Optional Step 7: Beer o'clock 1/2 way there.
Step 7: Compare the length of both the outer shielding and how much the cable protrudes from the shielding. Try to make the new cable match the old setup.
Step 8: Start feeding the new clutch cable into the engine compartment. Pay note that the cable MUST pass behind (or inboard) of the Crank Case vent line (pictured below). Once the cable is around the vertical cylinder head, make the 90 degree corner and start feeding the cable towards the front of the bike just inboard of the trellis frame.
Step 9: With the clutch cable pointing straight out the frame near the radiator, install the clutch cable clamp removed in Step 2. Now install the Cable retaining bracket removed in Step 4 on the engine case. WARNING It's a real SOB to do it behind the header pipe.
Step 10: Now feed the cable behind the headlight assembly, making sure you're not pinching any wires, and that it rests in the slot on the backside of the headlight assembly. (it's the red-ish coloured one in the picture)
Step 10: Now reinstall the cable into the clutch lever and perch on the bars, then rotate the adjuster to approximately where it was before you touched it.
Step 11: Again using the crescent wrench, rotate the clutch arm CCW to reinstall the cable into the clutch arm on the engine case.
Step 12: Reinstall the headlight assembly and the fuel tank side cover if you removed it. A little trick, a little dish soap or lube goes a LONG way with the two headlight grommets. They sometimes can be a PITA. Don't forget to reinstall the two little bolts underneath the headlight assembly.
ANNNNNNNNDDDDD Done. Go enjoy the light feeling clutch again (if you didn't have too many at optional step 7
).. Don't forget to check that your clutch engages properly before playing in traffic.
