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Starter Motor Replacement DIY

Still happy with my new used Denso. Made a world of difference. Did you get the bike Jeff and what did they say about the starter?
 
Had slow cranking with several clicks and required 3-4 presses of the starter button, especially with the engine warm or hot. Sometimes also accompanied by a flickering dash.
Now the starter motor is change to Denso (104A).
Bought a nearly new one on ebay for 190 USD.
Followed kuksul08 instructions.
 
I had my starter motor replaced under warranty but still having issues with starting!
Also there is a lot of moisture in the engine I've had that oil and filter replaced but it has come back is this a result of the engine casing being removed and not sealed properly?
f391a939d225f5199ca037121c30d5cb.jpg



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I had my starter motor replaced under warranty but still having issues with starting!
Also there is a lot of moisture in the engine I've had that oil and filter replaced but it has come back is this a result of the engine casing being removed and not sealed properly?

basically this is a problem of driving only short distances without warming oil enough.
moisture steams out when oil gets hot.
 
I had my starter motor replaced under warranty but still having issues with starting!
Also there is a lot of moisture in the engine I've had that oil and filter replaced but it has come back is this a result of the engine casing being removed and not sealed properly?
f391a939d225f5199ca037121c30d5cb.jpg



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To me it looks like the water pump might be leaking into the engine. If the engine casing wasn't sealed properly you would see oil dripping somewhere along the seal line. But I'm sure kuksul08 will be in a position to advise better
 
I do a 30 mile round trip to work and back it's below 10° at the moment and the bike temperature doesn't get over 60°


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I do a 30 mile round trip to work and back it's below 10° at the moment and the bike temperature doesn't get over 60°


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That's your problem. Let the bike sit and idle after your ride, it should heat up enough to burn off condensation.
 
I see the condensation on the window, but what about the oil itself, does it look ok? What about the coolant? That's the first thing to check, just in case.

I agree it's the bike not getting up to temp. Let it idle a bit to heat up, or ride longer. I notice my Hyper runs very cool, so I'm not sure I'd go after the thermostat yet though it is a possibility that it's stuck open. How quick does it get to 60C?

I have had this same deal on my bike that sits outside in rainy months and sees short riding trips. A longer, faster ride fixed it.
 
If this was air cooled it'd be no worries, just short trips in cold weather like others have pointed out. All my bikes suffer from that in the winter, but I've never had chocolate milk oil cause a problem. Since our Hypers are liquid cooled, there's the chance of a coolant leak causing contamination of the oil, so be sure to keep an eye on your coolant level. If it's not dropping, you're probably ok.
 
Has anybody got the link to where somebody had stripped down one of crap starter motors and what's the part number of both motors? Still having issues starting mine after the motor was replaced with a secondhand unit


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Guys, the milk in the sight glass is no cause for concern. I had this issue a couple years ago during the winter. Someone suggested leaving the oil plug off after you get it up to temp and park it, which worked after a few cycles - just remember to put your plug back in (I rested mine on the ignition bezel so I wouldn't forget and lose it).

Now, if your engine physically can't get up to working temp, can't help ya.
 
I second no cause for concern. However if that doesn't satisfy you, you might try a piece of cardboard over half the radiator. That'll get it up to temp better when riding in cold weather.
 
So, discovered a little hiccup with this DIY. There's a guide pin that holds the drive gear between the starter spline and large generator gear wheel. This pin stayed attached to the generator cover when I pulled it off. When I went to reinstall cover after starter swap, heard the tell-tale sound of a metal part *ding* as it hit the bottom of the generator housing. Found a ring spacer that I deduced goes behind the drive gear that the pin should have held in place.

Here's where it gets really nasty...
1. Discovered after this discovery that the guide pin is removable and should have stayed in place, holding the drive gear in tact. ***If you do this DIY and the guide pin stays attached to generator cover, remove immediately and seat through drive gear assembly. It free floats so it will break free by hand.
2. When trying to fish the spacer out, it fell into a 1/4" x 3/4" scavenge port (on bottom right when looking through the gear) that drops into the lower sump. Ruh-Roh.

I didn't have a magnetic fishing tool handy but my initial recon says it looked aluminum anyway. I pulled the oil screen filter plugs but not likely it would enter that section based on small cored passages leading to this scavenge area.

I'm working out of a parking lot with adequate tools but can't pull the engine or crack the entire case. I just finished the clutch mod and would rather not re-crack that case.

So, am I fooked? If I took the bike to a shop (in Southern Italy, mind you), they'd laugh at me and charge me a fortune for all the other half-finished projects I have going.

Can't touch the bike for a week so all input welcome. Items 8 & 9 are what I'm referencing.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GQ-2CgbT0bYUDFOOF80w2XjrRBdsWgH
 
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So when you pulled off the generator cover, it pulled the shaft, gear, and spacer out as one unit?

For some reason I don't feel like the spacer should be made of aluminum. I would first try buying a magnetic tool (it's good to have around anyway) and stick it in there. Also try going in from the drain plug since it should have settled at the bottom directly beneath where it fell in the hole.

Realistically it should not cause any damage because there are oil screens but for peace of mind I wouldn't want it floating around in there either. Will try to offer suggestions if I think of anything.
 
Can't tell what material it is based on this pic... it might be worth buying one for $9 to see if the magnet option is worth investigating.

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Thanks Kuk.

When I pulled the cover, all the gears stayed put but the centering/ guide pin stayed with the outer cover. Just a heads up to re-insert back into gears immediately.

I have a couple magnetic wands, just misplaced or lost at the moment. I drop hardware all the time and usually have these by my side.

I will definitely order another. When I looked in the oil drain section, only saw screens and a narrow scavenge port that just barely would fit the spacer.
 
So, saying I can't get this out because it's either Aluminum or just no luck fishing it out, think there's any chance of damage to the engine if it remains?

I have about 3K miles until Desmo service. I can address it then. From what I see on the schematics and naked eye, don't think there's any way it could reach anything spinning or turning. Not sure how our oil scavenge system works but definitely can't block or be sucked up by a pressure line.
 
I siphoned the fuel out. Put some new fuel along with additives and still nothing.




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