The Suspension Thread!!! BOOING

[dimelo73]

Well, the height of the bike is a compound problem. I mean, the ground clearance is really low; plus, the fact that the spring on the rear shock it's meant to support somebody that weights about 65-70kg.

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[Tricky NZ]

My HS is a 2016 939 and not labelled as low. However in the Manual has 2 different chain settings, 1 for standard & another for low bike. Mine has the setting for a low bike on the swing arm.

 

[ferdi]

i had a 821 2013 normal HS and now a 2016 939 one.
both have the same height, i measured them, i had them side by side, exactly the same.
i suppose that a low one is especially labeled as low in the papers and somewhere on the bike, otherwise it's a normal height one.

at streetuse, also at faster drving on our mountain roads in the alps, i never had a problem with groundclearance. with my wife on the backseat sometimes in curves when it fells into a bump, the main stand has contact. the funny thing at that - this does not occur at high lean angles but more at medium ones .
but it's definityl not for track use. i habe been on tracks with my 821 and 939 some times and my shift and brakelevers did not live long there, footpegs also lost aluminium and my dainese boots some leather and rubber.
i use my Corsaro now for tracks and look for an older RSV Mille for next year for tracks.

so, if you or someone wants to use it for tracks, it definitly has to be brought to the height of the normal hypermotard or even to SP heigth. HS is too low, even the standard heigth one.

 

[saken]

Dimelo, could you throw me a link to the TNK company you found that makes the inner tubes? I just bought the Mupo cartridge kit for my motard and looking to DLC the inners. I might just end up buying new inners for my project. Where abouts are you in Japan?

 

[zippy49]

i had a 821 2013 normal HS and now a 2016 939 one.
both have the same height, i measured them, i had them side by side, exactly the same.
i suppose that a low one is especially labeled as low in the papers and somewhere on the bike, otherwise it's a normal height one.

at streetuse, also at faster drving on our mountain roads in the alps, i never had a problem with groundclearance. with my wife on the backseat sometimes in curves when it fells into a bump, the main stand has contact. the funny thing at that - this does not occur at high lean angles but more at medium ones .
but it's definityl not for track use. i habe been on tracks with my 821 and 939 some times and my shift and brakelevers did not live long there, footpegs also lost aluminium and my dainese boots some leather and rubber.
i use my Corsaro now for tracks and look for an older RSV Mille for next year for tracks.

so, if you or someone wants to use it for tracks, it definitly has to be brought to the height of the normal hypermotard or even to SP heigth. HS is too low, even the standard heigth one.

The specs for the 2013 (not "Low") Hyperstrada and Hypermotard seat heights indicate that there is approximately 20mm difference. I have both seats, and the Motard one is thicker and puts me further forward, which could easily account for the difference.

My "Chicken Strips" are always about 5mm wide, and when my wife is passenger I just crank the rear preload all the way up and away we go. Also, I have installed folding tip foot levers.

I also have an SV650, which has about 75mm less legroom. I have very long legs, so I made a set of plates to move the pegs down and back a bit. The Hyper is quite comfortable on a long trip, unlike the SV.

I do fault Ducati for making the "Low" model and causing all this confusion.

Just checked, and the fork assemblies for regular Hyper and the Strada have the same part numbers.

 

[mentalist]

I have the Low Version, I adjusted my foot levers up, which naturally suits me anyway.
I wind the rear pre-load up and remove the center stand prior to any trackdays.
I do have a small chamfer on the footpegs and the gear leaver, but nothing that needs changing

 

[Araitim]

I'm not sure if I should start a new thread but this is what I have going on. I have a Base hypermotard 821. I'm installing the Andreani cartridge kit. The springs that came with the kit were labeled as 8.3. I weight 240ish lbs with gear. I asked Bellisimoto to verify that I have the correct spring rate. I havnt recieved a response yet. Here is what I know as of now. Stock springs are out. The number of active coils appear to be 29. Outer diameter of the spring is 38mm (or 1.49in or 1 1/2fract). Wire thickness is 5mm (or .197in or 25/128fract). According to the calculator that means that the OEM spring rate is 36lb/in or .64kg/mm. The Andreani spring rate is 8.3n/mm = .84kg/mm. Thoughts? Would you say the 8.3 springs are the appropriate rate for me? I have everything apart and cleaned while waiting on the oil to arrive. I am also unclear as to what oil height I need to run. The package says "Oil level (air chamber) 85mm". The instructions say to set oil height before installing the springs or spacers. It is my understanding that I fill with oil, prime the cartridge, add some more, prime again(repeat till air is gone from cartridge) then set oil level/air gap to 85mm. Correct? Thoughts on any of this or input?

 

[saken]

The people who went the Mupo route. Could you post your settings for front and rear? Just got mine back from being installed and the front is very stiff.
Im 85kg in gear so I went with a 95nm spring in the rear. I actually didnt see any markings on the front springs so not sure what they are but told them my weight. Would like to get the bike setup for riding twistys. Right now the rear feels pretty plush but the front feels like a board.

 

[RSL]

Instructions for Mupo rear:
The high speed compression is a pretty fine adjust, so I would start by
taking out 4 clicks initially, then two clicks at a time rather than just
one. If at some point, the chassis starts feeling a bit loose, you can
add a click or two of low speed back in.The high speed compression is a pretty fine adjust, so I would start by taking out 4 clicks initially, then two clicks at a time rather than just one. If at some point, the chassis starts feeling a bit loose, you can add a click or two of low speed back in.

My Mupo front have been right from the day I picked up the bike so I don't have instructions.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

The people who went the Mupo route. Could you post your settings for front and rear? Just got mine back from being installed and the front is very stiff.
Im 85kg in gear so I went with a 95nm spring in the rear. I actually didnt see any markings on the front springs so not sure what they are but told them my weight. Would like to get the bike setup for riding twistys. Right now the rear feels pretty plush but the front feels like a board.

Check compression and rebound in the front. I don't have these carts but when I got my SP the front was pretty abusive. After backing compression and rebound WAY off things got much plusher. After that I added a little back to keep things stable and it's been great. Nice thing about a long travel bike is that you can run softer settings and still have plenty of travel for bigger hits.

 

[jjweb]

Question on the single cartridge MUPO , any changes needed on the other leg , oil level , different oil weight? Or just replace seals (if needed) and fill oil to factory spec ?

 

[appliance821]

The people who went the Mupo route. Could you post your settings for front and rear? Just got mine back from being installed and the front is very stiff.
Im 85kg in gear so I went with a 95nm spring in the rear. I actually didnt see any markings on the front springs so not sure what they are but told them my weight. Would like to get the bike setup for riding twistys. Right now the rear feels pretty plush but the front feels like a board.

I just got the mupo front kit put on my strada and am starting my first adventure in suspension tuning. I'm about 220lbs fully geared and the springs in my kit are .7kg/mm . Not sure what the shop set the rebound and compression to, but it felt harsh on rough city roads. I'm interpreting this as compression - the first hit - and backed it off 5 clicks and it's better. I backed off rebound 3 clicks, but I think I feel it "nibbling" so I'll put that back in because I think the wheel is moving too much after the first hit. Not sure how it will play out, but this is the method I'll use. At the moment I'm assumimg my sag is correct - when I bring it up for the winter I'll check this and then go through it systematically again - right now I just want a few more rides before winter's icy grip. BTW - mupo sent me baseline settings (for street and offroad) - did you get those?

 

[Motosapien]

I have a very stupid question regarding Hypermotard and Hyperstrada front suspension. Can any one confirm if the springs of strada are softer than motard. I find the suspension very stiff on my 2014 Hypermotard 821 (standard) version. This gives me a bone jarring ride. Since im not a corner carver or a track day guy (would go once to tick it off my bucket list) i dont mind having a slightly softer suspension setting.

 

[kuksul08]

I have a very stupid question regarding Hypermotard and Hyperstrada front suspension. Can any one confirm if the springs of strada are softer than motard. I find the suspension very stiff on my 2014 Hypermotard 821 (standard) version. This gives me a bone jarring ride. Since im not a corner carver or a track day guy (would go once to tick it off my bucket list) i dont mind having a slightly softer suspension setting.

Most times, unless the springs are completely out of whack, the harshness can be attributed to setup, damping, friction (seal friction or binding due to fork misalignment), or geometry.

A lot of stock bikes use poorly tuned cheap parts. I'm not sure of the 2014 Hyper architecture but I'm sure you could address it cheaply with different oil or drilling some holes somewhere. Even my 2014 SP model had really aggressive suspension damping that made it pretty rough when cruising around and it wasn't easily tunable.

One thing I did learn is to never underestimate the effect of your seat on ride quality. There are a lot of things the suspension just can't affect. It's amazing the difference a softer seat can make.

Sorry I don't really have a solution but those are just some observations. Does it feel like the harshness is coming from the fork or shock, or both? Does the bike feel balanced front to rear or is one end noticeably stiffer?

 

[Motosapien]

Most times, unless the springs are completely out of whack, the harshness can be attributed to setup, damping, friction (seal friction or binding due to fork misalignment), or geometry.

A lot of stock bikes use poorly tuned cheap parts. I'm not sure of the 2014 Hyper architecture but I'm sure you could address it cheaply with different oil or drilling some holes somewhere. Even my 2014 SP model had really aggressive suspension damping that made it pretty rough when cruising around and it wasn't easily tunable.

One thing I did learn is to never underestimate the effect of your seat on ride quality. There are a lot of things the suspension just can't affect. It's amazing the difference a softer seat can make.

Sorry I don't really have a solution but those are just some observations. Does it feel like the harshness is coming from the fork or shock, or both? Does the bike feel balanced front to rear or is one end noticeably stiffer?

Harshness is from the fork, seat doesn’t bother me much! Rear seems okay for my weight at 85kg. In slightest rough patch, seems like a stick! Just got new seals and oil changed!

 

[kuksul08]

Harshness is from the fork, seat doesn’t bother me much! Rear seems okay for my weight at 85kg. In slightest rough patch, seems like a stick! Just got new seals and oil changed!

I know what you mean. You hit some roughness and it sends it all directly into your hands, right? I have encountered this on a couple bikes.

Are there any adjustments on it?

 

[nickwst4]

It's worth underlining what kuksul said, and checking that the forks are aligned and clamped to the front axle in a stress-free condition. If the tubes are pinched or spread from parallel, it will kill their shock-absorbing action. Pumping the forks against the front brake to align them can sometimes be frustrated by the brake pads gripping the disc, preventing the axle and fork clamps from moving relative to each other. It's better to run the front wheel against a wall without using the brake, and bounce your bodyweight down and up to pump the forks.

If everything else is as good as it can be within the spec of the type of fork, it is always worth fitting better 'bar grips that will cushion the hands a little. Pro-Grip 714 Enduro grips are great: so much better than any standard grips I've ever encountered and their grippiness means you don't need to hold the bars so tightly. 714s are always the first mod I do on each and every bike I get, because they are so hand-friendly.

 

[Araitim]

I stumbled across a new option that I didn't see posted here. The pieces look to be good quality but I have no personal experience

 

[kuksul08]

I am friends with one of the GEARS developers who was here for college some years back. They are enthusiasts out of Taiwan. Cool stuff.

 

[rldixon]

Can anyone please recommend a shop for fork modification and installation of Mupo cartridges in SoCal?