Joined May 2015
122 Posts | 0+
Waltham, MA
Throttle problem/Surging
- Thread starter HyperPhil
- Start date
The problem is that with 2mm of freeplay in the throttle, it isn't a twitchy wrist that's going to cause a problem , it's every bump or stone in the road if the throttle is really so sensitive.
I'm a very experienced rider that's had upwards of 10 bikes over the last 20 years and i can't think of a single one that exhibited quite this behaviour. My first 5 bikes were all off roaders/dual sports where you learn good throttle control riding on wet clay, woods etc.
It is however the only bike i've had which is ride by wire. That means there is one variable i can't eliminate from the equation myself by adjusting cables and freeplay.
Anybody reading this shouldn't be put off the HS though. I've covered more miles in the last 3 weeks that i did on my previous bike in 10 months. The bike is all day comfortable for me and really is loads of fun. I tell everyone who asks that in terms of feel and riding position it feels just like a big dirt bike to me which is probably why im so happy riding it.
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Joined Jan 2015
83 Posts | 1+
Australia
I did the same to mine on the weekend. I have only been doing city riding, but the bike seems to be smoother. Hopefully will go for ride on this weekend to see how that goes. Cheers.
Joined Jan 2015
83 Posts | 1+
Australia
The problem is that with 2mm of freeplay in the throttle, it isn't a twitchy wrist that's going to cause a problem , it's every bump or stone in the road if the throttle is really so sensitive.
I'm a very experienced rider that's had upwards of 10 bikes over the last 20 years and i can't think of a single one that exhibited quite this behaviour. My first 5 bikes were all off roaders/dual sports where you learn good throttle control riding on wet clay, woods etc.
It is however the only bike i've had which is ride by wire. That means there is one variable i can't eliminate from the equation myself by adjusting cables and freeplay.
Anybody reading this shouldn't be put off the HS though. I've covered more miles in the last 3 weeks that i did on my previous bike in 10 months. The bike is all day comfortable for me and really is loads of fun. I tell everyone who asks that in terms of feel and riding position it feels just like a big dirt bike to me which is probably why im so happy riding it.
Yes and yes again!
Well i've just got back from 50 miles of spirited riding in Sport mode and i have to say the engine brake/surge effect is much less pronounced than in touring mode.
The engine seems freer revving not only accelerating but when rolling off the throttle , and i suspect this may well be due to the exhaust valve actuation being different in this mode. Deactivating the valve seems to be a simple process from previous posts in this thread but i dont want a loose moving cable inside the housing and the possible loss of some low end torque so i will leave it for now.
Since economy didnt seem to suffer too badly either i think i will just leave it in Sport from here in.
The engine seems freer revving not only accelerating but when rolling off the throttle , and i suspect this may well be due to the exhaust valve actuation being different in this mode. Deactivating the valve seems to be a simple process from previous posts in this thread but i dont want a loose moving cable inside the housing and the possible loss of some low end torque so i will leave it for now.
Since economy didnt seem to suffer too badly either i think i will just leave it in Sport from here in.
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
The extensive ducati.ms threads on the butterfly delete state the butterfly is only for noise dampening. As I've screwed up back-pressure on car exhaust mods as a kid, I was worried this would be an issue with low end response.
The anal retentive side of me also doesn't want to leave that butterfly just sitting there in the pipe. I'm torn on removing the plate as it requires grinding the rivets- can't reinstall easily. Answer is just get an exhaust but I'm just not sold on any yet...price is a factor, too.
The anal retentive side of me also doesn't want to leave that butterfly just sitting there in the pipe. I'm torn on removing the plate as it requires grinding the rivets- can't reinstall easily. Answer is just get an exhaust but I'm just not sold on any yet...price is a factor, too.
I didn't mean to imply that there is free play in the throttle on my '13 HS anywhere other than from the zero point. With mine, I have a couple mm play from the zero point, and then no play at all after that. I get exactly the throttle I ask for, and I get it nearly instantaneously, more so than with any other street bike I have owned. The way it spools up reminds me in a way of the RM 125 two-stroke from years and years ago...
Understood Swede, thinking about it you are never going to feel free play in the throttle once its past the zero point.
Gatdammit, i'm more concerned about leaving the cable than the butterfly itself. Presumably it's still being activated by a motor/servo at the other end so with the butterfly end of the cable no longer under tension then the other end could work loose too from its mounting at the motor/servo? And eventually jam?
Gatdammit, i'm more concerned about leaving the cable than the butterfly itself. Presumably it's still being activated by a motor/servo at the other end so with the butterfly end of the cable no longer under tension then the other end could work loose too from its mounting at the motor/servo? And eventually jam?
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You can disconnect the butterfly cable at the motor end too. Just be sure to remove battery first. Nice details of the procedure on another site, not sure, but may have been the Akrapovič one. You need to disconnect cable to put in a full exhaust system...
I'm with Gat about not wanting to mess with back pressure personally. My concern about changing muffler (aside of cost) is that you can never have too much low end grunt, and I'd hate to lose anything at the lowest end for a couple of HP at the top, where there's plenty already....
I'm with Gat about not wanting to mess with back pressure personally. My concern about changing muffler (aside of cost) is that you can never have too much low end grunt, and I'd hate to lose anything at the lowest end for a couple of HP at the top, where there's plenty already....
I also have a twitchy feeling between @3500 and 5000 revs in sport mode. When I go in a constant speed. Especially at 4000 revs it's a subtle "twitching" like of not getting enough fuel? According to my Ducati dealer there's three ways of removing the "problem". 1. Exchange front cog for one with 1 tooth less. 2. Install a power commander. 3. Install a termignoni system. What do you think?
Joined Jan 2015
85 Posts | 0+
Opwijk, Belgium
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
I'm sure they stay within published emissions standards.
I want the opened up air filter inlet that supposedly comes with the Termi kit. I can't find it for sale individually on the Corse site or any distributors. Supposedly a shop in San Antonia sells it but for like $125. I've seen posts on another site that says you can get it for $10, which sounds about right.
Anybody have a lead on this?
I want the opened up air filter inlet that supposedly comes with the Termi kit. I can't find it for sale individually on the Corse site or any distributors. Supposedly a shop in San Antonia sells it but for like $125. I've seen posts on another site that says you can get it for $10, which sounds about right.
Anybody have a lead on this?
Hello. I ride a 2013 hypermotard.
1. I have 1 tooth less (14T)
2. I just installed Rapid Bike EVO (200k since installation)
3. I have the Termi high slip-on with UP-MAP
My throttle is also jerky a constant RPM just around 4k. I am hoping the Rapid Bike will cure that once I get some more miles on it.
My previous bike was a KTM 690 SM. Disabled the O2 sensor and increased the fuel using TuneECU. Completely transformed the bike.
Ø
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
I suspect that the aftermarket fueling modules only work at higher revs, and that the stock ECU handles up to around 4K. So adding a Power Commander or similar will not help that low rpm surging.
That's definitely the case with our new Duke 390, according to the forum.
That's definitely the case with our new Duke 390, according to the forum.
i do not know at HS, but other bikes e.g. the little Honda Grom, Dynojet PowerCommander handles open loop and Dynojet Wideband Commander 2 (this is like Dynojet Autotune + some other feastures), which is connected and controlled to/with PCV, handles closed loop.
So, WB2 e.g. sets AFR to 13.5 instead of 14.7. This works the way that the signal to the Honda ECU is changed so that ECU means it regulates to 14.7 but in reality it does 13.5.
I suppose that Rapidbike with its AFR/tune feature does the same or similar.
my personal opinion is, that the cheaper and simplier and more efficient way is to disable lambda regulation and only use open loop, if possible.
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As you mention the Power Commander controls only the open loop, so thats out of the question then
How do you disable the lambda without Error codes?
As you mention the Power Commander controls only the open loop, so thats out of the question then
How do you disable the lambda without Error codes?
i wrote it in the thread diagnostic plug for GuzziDiag.
but unfortunatly for our HS IAW7SM ECUs this does not work at time, but will come sooner or later.
I just now bought a Rexxer Evo and got some maps with it..
- without lambda and with open exhaustvalve.
- with lambda and open exhaust valve
but up to now i am not satisfied with engine smoothness, actually i cannot feel much difference to stock. but the files are for termignoni exhaus which i do not have, have stock one.
have to speek with Rexxer guy tomorrow.
i just want a file, based on original one and just lambda regulation disabled.
what they provided to me are files they generated on dynamometer for best performance. but 2 or 3 hp more or less is regardless for me, i want smoothness between 3000 and 4000 with low load.
@ferdi: It sounds like that's the solution to go for.
I'm usually in the span 3500 - 5500 for normal driving. Should I be in a lower gear?
I'm usually in the span 3500 - 5500 for normal driving. Should I be in a lower gear?
Joined Dec 2013
92 Posts | 0+
Minnesota, USA
Keep it above 4000 and shell be happier
That said, I'm often down around 2000 in 1st or 2nd gear. I do get a bit of surging, but nothing if find intolerable.