If it helps, I bought mine used at 12000km, put on another 15000, and my clutch pack looked new. I'm a heavy user with some aggressive riding with some track days.
If you're on the fence, then go with the #133/6 kit, take it apart, and if you find your clutch pack destroyed you can always buy the DU-133 kit later.
Joined Jan 2017
135 Posts | 4+
Phoenix
Yes, that does help. By comparison, my clutch [likely] hasn't had that bad of a life.
That's a good idea. I was on the fence while deciding because I forgot that the DU-133 doesn't have the parts from the #133/6, so it's not like I'd be buying them twice.
Thank you both, I have already ordered the #133/6.
I forgot to mention, guys, that this supplier selling the kits on eBay also has TONS of parts for Ducatis, all at really good prices. He has thousands of OEM surplus parts and random motorcycle parts.
One thing for example, is those little exhaust springs that some people have lost. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2015-...32A-/172322209656?vxp=mtr&hash=item281f343f78
There's a bunch of other stuff too if you look.
One thing for example, is those little exhaust springs that some people have lost. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2015-...32A-/172322209656?vxp=mtr&hash=item281f343f78
There's a bunch of other stuff too if you look.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Also ordered. Thanks for the legwork on this. It should make a massive improvement in owner satisfaction.
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
Kuk or Bayotte~
Did either of you experience the following on stock setup and did it affect:
1. Drive line friction when in gear and clutch fully disengaged. When I have the clutch adjusted to stock spec and drop it in gear with lever fully in, I get a noticeable *thunk* and can feel the gear slightly grabbing. If I put it on the center stand and do this, tire moves at a couple mph but I can stop it with my foot or a gloved hand.
2. Tough, ratcheting gear changes. I normally ride in steel toe boots so don't notice this unless I happen to ride in soft toe shoes. Toeing up through gears is rough and I can actually feel it bouncing off the cogs until it finds the gear.
3. Do you still use stock settings for base clutch play adjustment?
Did either of you experience the following on stock setup and did it affect:
1. Drive line friction when in gear and clutch fully disengaged. When I have the clutch adjusted to stock spec and drop it in gear with lever fully in, I get a noticeable *thunk* and can feel the gear slightly grabbing. If I put it on the center stand and do this, tire moves at a couple mph but I can stop it with my foot or a gloved hand.
2. Tough, ratcheting gear changes. I normally ride in steel toe boots so don't notice this unless I happen to ride in soft toe shoes. Toeing up through gears is rough and I can actually feel it bouncing off the cogs until it finds the gear.
3. Do you still use stock settings for base clutch play adjustment?
1. I notice a little bit of driveline friction, but no more than any other bike. I find that it goes away as the oil gets hot, which is totally normal. After the retrofit, I don't notice any change in the driveline friction and it's exactly as you describe.
2. My gear changes have always been pretty smooth with a nice positive click. After the retrofit they still are. No change there.
3. I backed my clutch freeplay out to the factory recommended setting. Because the engagement distance is longer now, it's a little more important to make sure you can fully disengage the clutch.
FWIW I have used a couple different oils in my motorcycles, and I am currently using Motul 7100 10w40 in the Hyper. It dramatically improved the clutch feel and shifting smoothness. I would recommend it to anyone to give it a shot.
2. My gear changes have always been pretty smooth with a nice positive click. After the retrofit they still are. No change there.
3. I backed my clutch freeplay out to the factory recommended setting. Because the engagement distance is longer now, it's a little more important to make sure you can fully disengage the clutch.
FWIW I have used a couple different oils in my motorcycles, and I am currently using Motul 7100 10w40 in the Hyper. It dramatically improved the clutch feel and shifting smoothness. I would recommend it to anyone to give it a shot.
Joined Apr 2017
244 Posts | 1+
California
Are you asking if the described conditions existed BEFORE adding the kit?
And are you asking IF these symptoms are still there AFTER installing the kit?
Or are you just talking about a stock bike with stock clutch set up?
On my Stock clutch:
My 20K mile Strada Clunks big time going into 1st gear from neutral ... hot or cold. It's worst coming from neutral into 1st gear. When riding, no clunks ... but as you describe ... shifting is not always butter smooth but for me, generally good. Positve, precise.
I think this Ducati prefers a rather positive foot/lever input when shifting. It's not a perfect gearbox but generally FINE for me. I have come false neutrals once in a while between 5th and 6th, IIRC.
Also, with bike in gear, engine off, there is some drag when pushing bike around, engine off.
Clutch drag on many bikes can be oil related. Different brands seem to drag more than others.
But most times a minor lever or cable adjustment can improve things. Important to make sure clutch fully disengages to reduce drag when lever is pulled to the stop.
I've done a couple clutches on DRZ400 Suzukis. Important to soak clutch plates in oil before assembly. I soaked mine over night just to be safe. Perfect clutch action, no drag on those bikes.
Also, I was AMAZED at the amount of shrinkage of the Suzuki's springs. HUGE!
I have NO IDEA if the clutch springs on the Hyper shrink as on some other bikes, but it can make a HUGE difference in clutch feel and performance/engagement.
You can measure your clutch springs to see if they match OEM spec. If too short, replace them. HEAT does this!
And are you asking IF these symptoms are still there AFTER installing the kit?
Or are you just talking about a stock bike with stock clutch set up?
On my Stock clutch:
My 20K mile Strada Clunks big time going into 1st gear from neutral ... hot or cold. It's worst coming from neutral into 1st gear. When riding, no clunks ... but as you describe ... shifting is not always butter smooth but for me, generally good. Positve, precise.
I think this Ducati prefers a rather positive foot/lever input when shifting. It's not a perfect gearbox but generally FINE for me. I have come false neutrals once in a while between 5th and 6th, IIRC.
Also, with bike in gear, engine off, there is some drag when pushing bike around, engine off.
Clutch drag on many bikes can be oil related. Different brands seem to drag more than others.
But most times a minor lever or cable adjustment can improve things. Important to make sure clutch fully disengages to reduce drag when lever is pulled to the stop.
I've done a couple clutches on DRZ400 Suzukis. Important to soak clutch plates in oil before assembly. I soaked mine over night just to be safe. Perfect clutch action, no drag on those bikes.
Also, I was AMAZED at the amount of shrinkage of the Suzuki's springs. HUGE!
I have NO IDEA if the clutch springs on the Hyper shrink as on some other bikes, but it can make a HUGE difference in clutch feel and performance/engagement.
You can measure your clutch springs to see if they match OEM spec. If too short, replace them. HEAT does this!
Gatdammit - much like kuksul I experience some drive line friction when cold, but nothing abnormal. This is a natural consequence of how the clutch is designed. My changes are generally smooth, but I do have a decent clunk going into first from neutral (this is normal). I suspect your difficult shifts are more a result of soft shoes than anything I always use riding boots and have no issues I used the stock clutch play settings and am happy with how it feels.
I don't think I've ever ridden a bike that didn't make a thunk when engaging first at a standstill. Definitely a lot of drag if the bike is in gear with just the clutch pulled in, I've taken the advice on this forum to put it in neutral for starts to put less load on the starter.
I have started noticing that 2nd sometimes feels "mushy" for lack of a better descriptor, it goes into gear fine, but not with the positive click I'm used to. This very well could be wear I have caused as I have my issues timing clutch and shifting in second at times resulting in a hard shift or a miss shift but this hasn't been an issue on previous bikes. Of course, previous bikes have been Hondas which are relatively bomb proof.
I have started noticing that 2nd sometimes feels "mushy" for lack of a better descriptor, it goes into gear fine, but not with the positive click I'm used to. This very well could be wear I have caused as I have my issues timing clutch and shifting in second at times resulting in a hard shift or a miss shift but this hasn't been an issue on previous bikes. Of course, previous bikes have been Hondas which are relatively bomb proof.
Joined Apr 2017
244 Posts | 1+
California
To get a cleaner, more positive shift from 1st to 2nd, try pre-loading the shift lever before shifting ... that is ... put some pressure (not too much) on the lever before actually shifting.
This takes up any slack or slop, then, when ready to shift, pull in clutch click up to 2nd. The pre-loading may help with the mushy-ness.
This takes up any slack or slop, then, when ready to shift, pull in clutch click up to 2nd. The pre-loading may help with the mushy-ness.
I'll give that a shot, I'm not as concerned about the feel, mostly worried my shifts might be a little, ahem, indelicate for such a refined italian gearbox
Just ordered the full kit but will have to wait until the current wood project in my shop is finished before i can move the HS in. A lot of vacuuming has to happen! My riding season is done so there's no rush, and besides, ski season is just around the corner!
cheers
Colin
cheers
Colin
Got my kit. It arrived quickly, bit i don't think I'll get to installing it til spring. Thanks again to all involved
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Joined Dec 2012
294 Posts | 1+
Central Washington
Joined Apr 2017
244 Posts | 1+
California
I received my kit last Friday (11/10). No time/energy to deal with it now.
I'd love for one of our Bay Area experts to run a "clutch clinic day" to do the install.
Anyone know what the purpose of the little washers in the kit? I think they are
Aluminum?
Do you guys recommend measuring Clutch Spring length when things are apart?
When clutch springs get HOT they SHRINK. Seen this on two Suzuki's. Spring length shrank by 1/2". new ones made night and day difference.
Thoughts?
I'd love for one of our Bay Area experts to run a "clutch clinic day" to do the install.
Anyone know what the purpose of the little washers in the kit? I think they are
Aluminum?
Do you guys recommend measuring Clutch Spring length when things are apart?
When clutch springs get HOT they SHRINK. Seen this on two Suzuki's. Spring length shrank by 1/2".
new ones made night and day difference. Thoughts?
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
A few comments
I'm 3/4 of the way done with the installation, and wanted to point out a couple of things.
There is very little clearance for pulling the cam belt cover fastener behind the exhaust. I have a gunsmith ratchet driver that takes an allen bit about 1/2" long, that helped. I'm at a loss for why the belt cover needed to be removed, there is a third tab on the clutch cover that is under it so it looks intentional. Strange design.
When I got to the "the clutch pack should slide right out" step it refused to cooperate. Turned out that I still had the rear wheel on the stand from when I removed the big nut, still in gear, which bound the stack up. Raising the wheel to free it all did the trick.
I'm ready to install the cover, should be smooth sailing from here.
BTW when I checked the cam belt it seemed plenty tight. 10K miles, but I don't use much revs. And I think those washers are for sealing the oil strainer.
Finally, I noticed a logo on the tabs of the friction plate that I removed... same name as on the boxes the kit came in...truly OEM.
I'm 3/4 of the way done with the installation, and wanted to point out a couple of things.
There is very little clearance for pulling the cam belt cover fastener behind the exhaust. I have a gunsmith ratchet driver that takes an allen bit about 1/2" long, that helped. I'm at a loss for why the belt cover needed to be removed, there is a third tab on the clutch cover that is under it so it looks intentional. Strange design.
When I got to the "the clutch pack should slide right out" step it refused to cooperate. Turned out that I still had the rear wheel on the stand from when I removed the big nut, still in gear, which bound the stack up. Raising the wheel to free it all did the trick.
I'm ready to install the cover, should be smooth sailing from here.
BTW when I checked the cam belt it seemed plenty tight. 10K miles, but I don't use much revs. And I think those washers are for sealing the oil strainer.
Finally, I noticed a logo on the tabs of the friction plate that I removed... same name as on the boxes the kit came in...truly OEM.