At this point I'm concerned that you may need to disassemble to find what went wrong, this sounds like an assembly issue.
Joined Apr 2017
52 Posts | 0+
Alabama
As much as it pains me to agree, I'm afraid you may be right. It's obviously not working correctly as is. Will have to tear down to see if I can troubleshoot and correct the issue.
Ugh... I feel your pain man. I've been there many times. Just take your time and feel free to post follow up questions.
You really want to adjust the lever adjuster to the center of it's adjustment - do a rough final adjust with the secondary adjuster, and then use the lever adjuster for a fine tune. It makes difference even with the stock set up.
Joined Apr 2017
52 Posts | 0+
Alabama
Thanks for all the guidance guys. I'm gonna do a slow tear down tomorrow and see what I can find. *Fingers crossed
Also, does anyone have a functioning link to the service manual? I think it might be helpful to see an exploded diagram. I want to verify my placement/order of the washer and sleeve on the back side of the clutch basket on the crank. It seemed like it would only go on one way but want to be sure.
Thanks,
Also, does anyone have a functioning link to the service manual? I think it might be helpful to see an exploded diagram. I want to verify my placement/order of the washer and sleeve on the back side of the clutch basket on the crank. It seemed like it would only go on one way but want to be sure.
Thanks,
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Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
I've got more if you need them... the 2015 parts list should be what you want.
I got the bike back together after returning from the bike show, but found a small o-ring under the bench... the inner from the brake lever pivot shaft. So that needs to be replaced before I get a test ride. But the feel at the clutch lever is 100% normal, with the adjuster back where it was before, so I'm hopeful that it will work.
Getting the plates aligned was a slow process of tightening until one binds, then flipping the stack over and loosening & wiggling until it slips into place. Repeat a half dozen times!
I got the bike back together after returning from the bike show, but found a small o-ring under the bench... the inner from the brake lever pivot shaft. So that needs to be replaced before I get a test ride. But the feel at the clutch lever is 100% normal, with the adjuster back where it was before, so I'm hopeful that it will work.
Getting the plates aligned was a slow process of tightening until one binds, then flipping the stack over and loosening & wiggling until it slips into place. Repeat a half dozen times!
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
It's always something...
I got the bike out for a very brief test ride. Shifted through the gears okay, but couldn't get into neutral at a stop. Started tightening the adjuster, got there once, but the free play was inadequate. So I increased the (aftermarket) lever reach and it got better. Had it at setting 1, fully close. Most importantly, the launch is amazingly smooth now, as promised.
However... the left fork is puking oil, left a puddle on the bench. So it's back on a front stand and the forks will go to Racetech for seals tomorrow. No real test ride today!
I got the bike out for a very brief test ride. Shifted through the gears okay, but couldn't get into neutral at a stop. Started tightening the adjuster, got there once, but the free play was inadequate. So I increased the (aftermarket) lever reach and it got better. Had it at setting 1, fully close. Most importantly, the launch is amazingly smooth now, as promised.
However... the left fork is puking oil, left a puddle on the bench. So it's back on a front stand and the forks will go to Racetech for seals tomorrow. No real test ride today!
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Sorry to hear about your forks, but glad to hear your launch is as it should be! I'm sure you'll get your neutral issue sorted .
Joined Apr 2017
52 Posts | 0+
Alabama
Ok guys,
I got the thing back apart. At first glance it looks like I doubled up the washers on the drive shaft. Items 13 and 6 in the photo against one another. I had two underneath the sleeve and nothing inside the basket.
Still want to check a few more things before reassembling but I had one other question. Does the top or outermost plate ride pretty freely?
The lower plates seem to be under tension/friction from the springs inside the basket (this with the M3 threaded rod holding everything together) but the top friction plate (one that is offset upon reassembly) and steel plate appear to rotate pretty freely, like there is some play. Is that normal? I think those are the ones that got replaced along with the judder spring.
I got the thing back apart. At first glance it looks like I doubled up the washers on the drive shaft. Items 13 and 6 in the photo against one another. I had two underneath the sleeve and nothing inside the basket.
Still want to check a few more things before reassembling but I had one other question. Does the top or outermost plate ride pretty freely?
The lower plates seem to be under tension/friction from the springs inside the basket (this with the M3 threaded rod holding everything together) but the top friction plate (one that is offset upon reassembly) and steel plate appear to rotate pretty freely, like there is some play. Is that normal? I think those are the ones that got replaced along with the judder spring.
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Yep sounds like that was the problem. So the clutch basket was probably binding against the engine case. I don't think that should cause any lasting issues.
Yep, mine floated freely as well. I was also skeptical that this was right, but I have a feeling the plate gets compressed fully once you get on the throttle due to the ramp mechanism. I can't really say for sure. In the static state, the clutch actually doesn't have much pressure on it because you have all those inner springs fighting the main clutch springs. That's how we have such an easy clutch lever pull.
Yep, mine floated freely as well. I was also skeptical that this was right, but I have a feeling the plate gets compressed fully once you get on the throttle due to the ramp mechanism. I can't really say for sure. In the static state, the clutch actually doesn't have much pressure on it because you have all those inner springs fighting the main clutch springs. That's how we have such an easy clutch lever pull.
Joined Apr 2017
52 Posts | 0+
Alabama
Gentlemen, I think we have arrived at the solution.
I dry fit everything back together and was able to spin the back wheel freely with the clutch lever pulled in in sixth gear. The explanation for the thrust washer purpose/function/position makes good sense. I will clean the case and reapply sealant and add the oil later this week, and then hopefully I can test. Thanks for all the help kuksol08 and bayotte. You guys are awesome!
I dry fit everything back together and was able to spin the back wheel freely with the clutch lever pulled in in sixth gear. The explanation for the thrust washer purpose/function/position makes good sense. I will clean the case and reapply sealant and add the oil later this week, and then hopefully I can test. Thanks for all the help kuksol08 and bayotte. You guys are awesome!
Awesome. Have you tried a super aggressive race launch yet? I was absolutely blown away at how hard I could launch it now. Just rev it, lean forward, let out the clutch smoothly, and whack the throttle.
Do installation instructions ship with the kit? Or where to find them? I'd love to take a look before ordering this kit (cheap one).
Joined Nov 2013
1K Posts | 1+
Inland SoCal
Absolutely, yes. Smooth as glass. What a difference, makes me think that someone in Ducati's engineering management made a big mistake.
Fork service next Tuesday, first thing in the morning. I've only got about 8 miles on the new clutch, will report when I get it back on the road.