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2015 Clutch Kits Now Available

Hyp Noob said:
I received my kit last Friday (11/10). No time/energy to deal with it now.

I'd love for one of our Bay Area experts to run a "clutch clinic day" to do the install.

Anyone know what the purpose of the little washers in the kit? I think they are
Aluminum?

Do you guys recommend measuring Clutch Spring length when things are apart?
When clutch springs get HOT they SHRINK. Seen this on two Suzuki's. Spring length shrank by 1/2". :eek: new ones made night and day difference.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Apparently.. the little aluminum spacers are 1mm spring preload spacers. I'm not sure how much difference they really make, but the factory provided them and this info that they should be included. I measured my clutch springs at 56.6mm, which is within spec.

After learning about the spring preload spacers, I did learn that the 2015 clutch spring holder/release part is different than the 2013/2014. Perhaps increasing preload without the need for additional spacers. Just a blind guess.

zippy49 said:
I'm 3/4 of the way done with the installation, and wanted to point out a couple of things.

There is very little clearance for pulling the cam belt cover fastener behind the exhaust. I have a gunsmith ratchet driver that takes an allen bit about 1/2" long, that helped. I'm at a loss for why the belt cover needed to be removed, there is a third tab on the clutch cover that is under it so it looks intentional. Strange design.

When I got to the "the clutch pack should slide right out" step it refused to cooperate. Turned out that I still had the rear wheel on the stand from when I removed the big nut, still in gear, which bound the stack up. Raising the wheel to free it all did the trick.

I'm ready to install the cover, should be smooth sailing from here.

BTW when I checked the cam belt it seemed plenty tight. 10K miles, but I don't use much revs. And I think those washers are for sealing the oil strainer.

Finally, I noticed a logo on the tabs of the friction plate that I removed... same name as on the boxes the kit came in...truly OEM.
Click to expand...

Agreed on the belt cover... really not sure there either. I had to cut an allen wrench shorter to get it to clear the header pipe.

What method did you end up assembling it? Were there any tolerance issues? I honestly would not be surprised if people's clutch baskets were different from one to the next.

And yes, it doesn't get any more OEM than this :)
 
Hyp Noob said:
I received my kit last Friday (11/10). No time/energy to deal with it now.

I'd love for one of our Bay Area experts to run a "clutch clinic day" to do the install.

Anyone know what the purpose of the little washers in the kit? I think they are
Aluminum?

Do you guys recommend measuring Clutch Spring length when things are apart?
When clutch springs get HOT they SHRINK. Seen this on two Suzuki's. Spring length shrank by 1/2". :eek: new ones made night and day difference.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...


I'm in Oakland and would be down for a bay area "clutch clinic". I've been tempted to rent a stall at Moto Guild on Treasure Island. However, I worry that the job would exceed my limited wrenching skills and I'd end up stranded on the island.


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OllieHolic said:
I'm in Oakland and would be down for a bay area "clutch clinic". I've been tempted to rent a stall at Moto Guild on Treasure Island. However, I worry that the job would exceed my limited wrenching skills and I'd end up stranded on the island.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

A Ducati shop could do the swap in a few hours, if you don't think you could do it yourself.
 
Just ordered the anti judder kit. Lot of bike thefts recently where I live so if you see it for sale... But, thanks for getting this together, much appreciated.
 
bayotte said:
A Ducati shop could do the swap in a few hours, if you don't think you could do it yourself.
Click to expand...

I was quoted $400 for the job at my dealer. It isn't really all that hard, at least so far. Doing final assembly next, might do a trial fitting to make sure the clutch operates properly, before applying the sealant.

PS I used a spoke wrench from my wheelbuilding on those tiny 3mm nuts. Worked like a charm.

Kuksul: Did you use those spring spacers on your clutch? I went ahead and put them in.
 
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zippy49 said:
I was quoted $400 for the job at my dealer. It isn't really all that hard, at least so far. Doing final assembly next, might do a trial fitting to make sure the clutch operates properly, before applying the sealant.

PS I used a spoke wrench from my wheelbuilding on those tiny 3mm nuts. Worked like a charm.

Kuksul: Did you use those spring spacers on your clutch? I went ahead and put them in.
Click to expand...

Yes I did, on top of the springs, under the retainer piece.
 
Hmm, I put them in under the springs. Didn't think they would stay centered under the pusher plate.

I'm about to apply the sealant and button up the cover. Then we're off to the bike show in Long Beach. It should be ready to fill and test tomorrow. I'll post my results.
 
They will stay on top. I think on bottom they will hit against a ledge. Not the best thing I don't think
 
Ok need advice and consoling.

*Problem:
With the engine off the clutch does not disengage enough to allow the wheel to spin freely when in gear. (i.e. like the clutch lever has not been pulled). The situation did not improve when I put the bike in neutral and let it come up to temp. Neutral does work, but when I pull in the clutch lever and try to shift into first there is a violent clunk (like I've shifted without using the clutch) and the rear wheel immediately spins. This was all done on the stand, off the stand the bike jerks and stalls immediately.


Situation:
1) I verified that the tab on the side of the engine case is attached to the knob on the inside that grabs the clutch carriage.

2) I did not read about the washers for the springs in the guide so I ignored them. Additionally I did not measure the height of the springs from my clutch when I had everything disassembled.

3) When I added the judder spring/spacer/driving/driven plate from the kit, I removed exactly: 1 driving plate and 1 driven plate from the existing blutch assembly. Is that correct?

Thanks for any help or guidance guys. I'm really frustrated.:(
 
Ripyowrist - have you adjusted the clutch lever play since doing the clutch plate change? It sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging, this may be due to improper clutch lever adjustment
 
bayotte,

I did. I adjusted the screw basically out to the max it would go (touchin ghte little metal retainer underneath the washer portion of the adjustment screw) to try and limit the play as much as possible on the lever end. I also noted that the tab on the side of the engine case was reaching the full extent of its travel upon full clutch lever pull.
 
ripyowrist said:
Ok need advice and consoling.

*Problem:
With the engine off the clutch does not disengage enough to allow the wheel to spin freely when in gear. (i.e. like the clutch lever has not been pulled). The situation did not improve when I put the bike in neutral and let it come up to temp. Neutral does work, but when I pull in the clutch lever and try to shift into first there is a violent clunk (like I've shifted without using the clutch) and the rear wheel immediately spins. This was all done on the stand, off the stand the bike jerks and stalls immediately.


Situation:
1) I verified that the tab on the side of the engine case is attached to the knob on the inside that grabs the clutch carriage.

2) I did not read about the washers for the springs in the guide so I ignored them. Additionally I did not measure the height of the springs from my clutch when I had everything disassembled.

3) When I added the judder spring/spacer/driving/driven plate from the kit, I removed exactly: 1 driving plate and 1 driven plate from the existing blutch assembly. Is that correct?

Thanks for any help or guidance guys. I'm really frustrated.:(
Click to expand...

Huh...

First off, I wouldn't worry about the springs or washers, they will only ever so slightly increase the clutch clamping force and would not cause this issue.

That is correct, you remove the outer friction plate and steel plate and replace them with the new parts. So for example, on the very outside you originally had the friction plate taking up about 3.5mm of thickness. You removed that, and replaced it with the narrow friction plate, judder spring, and seat. The next item in the stack is the steel plate, which you replace with the new (heat treated) version from the kit. The total stack height should only be slightly more than original due to the squish in the judder spring.

I apologize if I'm stating the obvious but there are a few things to check. Did you make sure the washer behind the clutch assembly didn't fall out? If it is missing, the nut could make the whole thing bind. Did you remove the M3 threaded rod? Is the clutch lever adjusted properly? You can look inside the oil fill cap and verify the clutch is disengaging (it moves approximately 1/8" when you pull the clutch lever).

The first thing I would do before starting the engine any more is put the bike in gear on the stand and try rotating the wheel by hand to do troubleshooting.
 
Do you think it's correctly adjusted now, according to the specs in the manual? If you've maxed out the adjustment on the thumb screw you may need to use the other adjuster.

If you take off the oil fill screw and look at the clutch plates, can you see them moving then you pull the clutch?
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I installed the plates the way you have just described.

kuksul08, to answer your questions looking through the filler cap the outermost plate (or maybe the outside of the hub?) Moves 1/8th of an inch on clutch lever pull. We double checked to ale sure that the washer went back in behind the entire assembly when we put it all back together. I also removed the threaded rod before reassembling.
 
Also just verified the clutch lever setting as per the manual and checked the secondary adjuster a bit so the screw near the lever isn't at the full extent of its range of travel.

Should all the plates move when looking through the filler hole?
 
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No just the outer pressure plate thing. The plates themselves just kinda relax but there is nothing to push them away from eachother.
 
Cannot verify that it is full 1/8th of an inch of travel. It appears to be less than that. It is moving on clutch pull but I would venture to say that it is more than a 1/16th but less than an 1/8th in of travel.

Appears to be enough though.
 
1/8" was just an estimate.

So... when you have the bike on a stand in 6th and try rotating the wheel with the clutch in, can you physically rotate it?
 
Barely, so I can sort of roll the wheel to where it stops and hammer or pop it and see it move by small increments each time. It will slowly rotate around like it's overcoming the friction when I roll forward quicky into the place where it catches. This is on the stand in sixth.
 
My only other thought is when you assembled the clutch pack the last steel plate went on crooked because it didn't fit down on the splines properly. You kinda have to assemble it upside down to keep the plates on the splines.
 

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