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Adventures in Hypermotard Tuning...

Well that could be it... lol. Bike thinks it's warmer than it is, meaning the air is less dense, so it spits in less fuel, and it runs lean.

You have nothing to lose by playing with the RB mapping. Try adding 5-10% across the board and see if it helps. It won't be perfect but will tell you if you're headed in the right direction.

A TPS reset never hurts. They can also reset your adaptation tables. I'm trying to think of what could have gone wrong when you installed the new belt covers...
 
I appreciate you help with this. I have been through this somany times it is frustrating. I believe this last time I was extremely thorough but if it continues I must have missed something. Have you ever had your TPS reset? Also. Is the guy correct in saying that you cant synch ride by wire throttle bodies? What about the engine braking feature on the rapidbike module. I dont remember if it was on when I installed it but it is on now and appears as though it has been on since the last time I was into the RB module.
 
It seems to be running ALOT better. I just have to relax and accept the normal ducati noises now but after having them really exaggerated during this endeavor I feel it will rake time. LOL. So. It seems as though I needed to turn on the pump correction feature. She feels very lively and snappy again. Like when I first uploaded the Kuk map. I'm not sure how the pump correction was turned off or why my bike seems to need it on(if others dont, I'm not sure) but it's running strong now. I appreciate all the input. I'm going to have the TPS reset on Monday and I'm going to clean the ambient air temp sensor(to try and get it more accurate. Bike has over 14k miles on it) and maby clean the mass air flow sensitive too.
 
I was tracing my similar issue yesterday and found an interesting Monster 821 thread discussing how it's common for the radiator fan to cut the horizontal spark plug wire. Checked mine and not cut but the wire was resting against the radiator so I re-routed.

About this pump correction, if I followed your write-up to the letter regarding custom map upload, am I good? Don't remember this step. Regardless, I was sort of having my issue before touching my RB software so pretty sure it's not an issue.
 
gatdammit said:
I was tracing my similar issue yesterday and found an interesting Monster 821 thread discussing how it's common for the radiator fan to cut the horizontal spark plug wire. Checked mine and not cut but the wire was resting against the radiator so I re-routed.

About this pump correction, if I followed your write-up to the letter regarding custom map upload, am I good? Don't remember this step. Regardless, I was sort of having my issue before touching my RB software so pretty sure it's not an issue.
Click to expand...

I'm not 100% sure but I might have accidentally turned that correction pump feature off causing my entire problem. As for the coil wires, I did the Aprilia coil swap to prevent the common display and/or ECU from burning up. When I did the coil swap I moved the wires away from the fans. I actually moved all wires away from moving parts and moved everything so it wasnt resting on metal. I have been kicking around the idea of making some better wires for the battery to ground/frame and another for the positive but I mainly am focused on the negative grounding field. Seems to have helped my previous bikes in some way or another.
 
I have a new starter and am seriously considering ordering a beefy grounding kit. Never had starter fear before but the stocker has me spooked.
 
Oxygen sensors

So I was getting "errors" on the dash and it looked like my vertical O2 sensor was bad for the third time. Since I'm way out of warranty and I don't like contributing to the GDP of Italy a used solution had to be found. Couldn't find any Hyper versions but I did find some from a 2015 821 Monster.

[/ATTACH]

The monster uses a Continental ECU

I converted the connector. Seems to work just fine. Kuksul, what do you think the difference is. Narrow band vs. wide band?
 

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Interesting.

It is very rare for cars to have wideband O2's and I'm not sure of any motorcycles that do. There is just no reason for it since it's an emissions device and narrowbands cost a fraction of the amount.

I do like that new one you got though - the stock Hyper sensor seemed dinky to me.
 
I believe my o2 sensors are bad. I unplugged them and it seems to run just fine. I have the rapidbike module set to emulate the o2 sensors . Instead of replacing the sensors could I use a o2 eliminator module like this one? It's cheaper and I dont believe I'm actually utilizing them at this point anyways. Would it mesh with the rapidbike module or do you think there would be some communication issue. I'm trying to get the engine light off on the dash.
 
Bump. I've been wrenching on my HS for months and will be pissed if she's still choking from my O2 issue. If on my first shake-down ride I'm still getting the stuttering, I'm gonna disconnect. I'm almost positive it's the wiring/ connection point and not the sensor itself. Every lower exposed sensor/ lead I've checked has some level of corrosion. My starter lead was nasty.
 
The RB Evo should emulate O2 sensors so you should be able to remove them, but I've heard of people getting check engine lights from a bad O2 sensor with the RB installed. So I'm not really sure how that works... it's kinda frustrating. One of the reasons why if I were to do it again I would go with a rexxer tune to disable O2's first, and then use a power commander for the custom user-adjustable mapping. Or just unplug the O2 sensors and ride around with a check engine code all the time; at least then you'd know for sure it's running without relying on the O2's...
 
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Any thoughts on the My Tuning Bike module? Sounds like it should solve all the problems, but pricey since you need two of them @$325 each. I assume they are installed in place of the factory narrow band sensors?
 
Relax said:
Any thoughts on the My Tuning Bike module? Sounds like it should solve all the problems, but pricey since you need two of them @$325 each. I assume they are installed in place of the factory narrow band sensors?
Click to expand...

Yes that could also work. The my tuning bike is just wideband sensors with control units to feed them the proper voltage and maintain the proper temperature using the built in heating elements.

Widebands use 18mm threads and the narrowbands use something like a 10 or 12mm fine thread. You'd still need to weld additional ports.
 
For those that have an RB Evo/ Racing, this custom map is far superior to Adaptive Tune. I swapped them recently for troubleshooting an issue and the bike noticeably ran nastier. Idle was rougher and it hunted more. It felt/ sounded noiser, in a bad way. Put the custom map back in and it sweetened up.

I unfortunately still have the 2nd gear misfire. When I first swapped back to the custom map, it was gone for almost 2 days. I'm hoping my local shop can solve it without telling me to remove all my go-faster parts.
 
Hi kuksul08, would you happen to have an updated link to the rapidbike map? The drop-box one is unavailable. Also, any recommendation for the correction pump tune settings? I'm running the MWR filters (power up) and the bike is not running well after 300 miles of auto-tune. Thank you in advance.
 
mikejuice said:
Hi kuksul08, would you happen to have an updated link to the rapidbike map? The drop-box one is unavailable. Also, any recommendation for the correction pump tune settings? I'm running the MWR filters (power up) and the bike is not running well after 300 miles of auto-tune. Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

I wonder why dropbox kills links like that. Maybe they time out. Here ya go: https://www.dropbox.com/s/r42gkgc79o55u1x/Book1.xlsx?dl=0

I never changed the correction pump settings, so I can't help you there. I would leave that alone, and then disable auto-tune, and try this map. But keep in mind every bike is different so the correct way would be a tune specifically for your bike.
 
It seems as though I only get the 2nd gear stumble under the following conditions:

1. Quick crack to full open in 2nd gear below 6K rpm
2. WOT from 1st through 2nd gear

If I roll on gently and let the revs climb in 2nd moderately, it usually won't stumble.
 
kuksul08 said:
Sure. No guarantee it will produce great results since our bikes are going to be different but you can give it a shot. You might want to wait until I verify all the trims with another data log in the coming week.

***First things first. Take some screen shots of your current settings, current map, and current Auto Adaptivity trims before changing any of this. Also do the "Backup" just in case. That way you can go back at any time to your original setup. I'd also be interested what map and auto adaptivity trims you're currently running, so post them up if you can!

1. Plug in your computer to the RB module, open the Rapidbike Master software, and click the connect button. It may ask you to download updates, update firmware, etc. I usually do all that first.

2. Go to the Auto Adaptivity tab and press the DISABLE button on bottom right. Then Apply if it's possible. Leave the RB02 Active checked... this keeps fooling the bike's ECU that the O2 sensors are working properly.

3. Go to the RB Features tab and go to Map Configuration. Change it to 35x9. Go the rows/columns. Leave the RPM limits the same at 1300, 9700. Change the TPS columns to 0, 2, 5, 10, 20, 40, 60, 80, 95. Apply these changes. I had to close the program and re-open and re-connect to get it to show the new configuration.

4. You should have Cyl 1 and Cyl 2 maps all 0's. See if you can open this map and then press Send Map.
Map:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7smsqklyzgr6ost/ZT2 Tune v170310.mpp?dl=0

Should look like this:
P73z6Sg.jpg


wh5TPZ6.jpg
Click to expand...


I went to try and use your map but my RPM'S are different?
 

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