I'd try lubing the cable - or disconnecting it and seeing if it slides smoothly. A new cable is around $30-40 - so it's not too expensive.
I replaced my cable and it's a lot better now. I used a dry graphite lube and it hasn't damaged the lining.
Joined Mar 2013
3K Posts | 161+
Naples, IT
this. From a cold stop, if you flirt with the grab point before really being familiar with it, you can get caught in a snatchy, on/off incident. I do traffic and a couple riding schools. Just feels like a clutch to me anymore.
Joined Apr 2017
52 Posts | 0+
Alabama
Ok, well maybe a decent adjustment to the cable will provide some improvement. The engage point seems like it is occurring at clutch all the way out. Like as soon as I squeeze the clutch that's the point where it disengages. So that, coupled with my hard to squeeze clutch makes applying any "finesse" somewhat difficult.
If I'm following correctly the most desirable place for the small window to occur would be somewhere in the middle of the travel of the lever? Or would that just be the free play that I introduce at the end of the lever using the handle adjustment screw to make it begin to engage closer to the bar?
If I'm following correctly the most desirable place for the small window to occur would be somewhere in the middle of the travel of the lever? Or would that just be the free play that I introduce at the end of the lever using the handle adjustment screw to make it begin to engage closer to the bar?
Ideally, yes the engagement point would be somewhere near the middle of the clutch lever travel. Your user manual has details on clutch cable adjustment, and the amount of free play allowed. Following those directions, mine grabs almost at the end of the lever travel.
Once you get used to this clutch, it isn't as bad as it seems right off. I find that if I give more throttle than I would think necessary and then aggressively feather through the very last bit of clutch lever travel I can get reasonably quick and smooth starts. But like has been said before, once you get into the clutch-throttle-clutch-throttle cycle you just look like an *** on the bike.
Still waiting for my '15 clutch to arrive, I'll update once I get it in.
Once you get used to this clutch, it isn't as bad as it seems right off. I find that if I give more throttle than I would think necessary and then aggressively feather through the very last bit of clutch lever travel I can get reasonably quick and smooth starts. But like has been said before, once you get into the clutch-throttle-clutch-throttle cycle you just look like an *** on the bike.
Still waiting for my '15 clutch to arrive, I'll update once I get it in.
Oh and you may want to try Motul 300V oil on your next change. I noticed only minimal improvements, but some riders have found that it helped quite a bit.
Quick update - the 2015 clutch I ordered came, but turns out it's a 2013 clutch. Arghh. Looking for another now.
Joined Apr 2017
52 Posts | 0+
Alabama
Nooo!! haha that's terrible.
My bike has been out of commission due to a lost rear brake reservoir cap. I haven't been able to ride since the cap came off. A new one is on the way though. When I get it put on I plan to test the adjustment of the brake cable. I will to conduct a few rides with a lot of "stop-and-go" to try to get a better feel for the clutch action and adjust the lever accordingly.
If that doesn't help the next course of action will be an oil change.
I'm rooting for you though bayotte!
My bike has been out of commission due to a lost rear brake reservoir cap. I haven't been able to ride since the cap came off. A new one is on the way though. When I get it put on I plan to test the adjustment of the brake cable. I will to conduct a few rides with a lot of "stop-and-go" to try to get a better feel for the clutch action and adjust the lever accordingly.
If that doesn't help the next course of action will be an oil change.
I'm rooting for you though bayotte!
Any idea what brand the clutch is? I have been thinking maybe we can contact the mfr and buy direct or just buy the spring only.
Appears to be "Adler". If you go that route, you will need, at the very least, the belleville washer, spacer, and outer friction plate from the 2015 clutch pack.
Finally got the 2015 clutch plates installed. I'll be posting a write-up in a separate thread. Long story short - swapping the plates totally works. The clutch feels completely different now. Linear engagement, easy modulation, and no more walking on eggshells trying to launch this thing.
I'd 100% recommend this swap. Completely changes the bike.
I'd 100% recommend this swap. Completely changes the bike.
DISCHI FRIZIONE COMPLETI ADIGE DU-125 DUCATI HYPERSTRADA 821cc 2013
Found this. Appears to be the 2013/2014 only. I will call them about a 2015 part number, they have a US distributor. Price seems more reasonable without the Ducati name attached.
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Posted the swap guide here: http://hyperstrada.com/mechanical-t...ermotard-821-clutch-fix-definitive-guide.html
Joined Apr 2017
52 Posts | 0+
Alabama
Boom! Bayotte you're a total boss
. I'm definitely gonna be doing this. Appreciate the hard work man. Hope you're murdering the streets all night and day now that you've got the clutch sorted. You da real MVP!
. I'm definitely gonna be doing this. Appreciate the hard work man. Hope you're murdering the streets all night and day now that you've got the clutch sorted. You da real MVP!Haha no problem! Don't know about murdering the streets, but now at least I can pull out into traffic without dying, so that's a plus!
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