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Rapidbike reversing polarity clip

Joined Sep 2017
595 Posts | 121+
Lansing Mi
Got my rapidbike evo today(so excited). I have it almost all the way together but have come to the power feed plugs. On the OEM there is 2 yellow on one plug and it plugs into a red and slate Plug. The rapidbike connectors have red and blue wires. If I just plug it in without the additional reverse polarity connector the red line up. Is this correct or do I need to add the reversing section? The first pic is with the rapidbike plugged in.
 

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yup, I didn't need the reversing polarity adapter. my instructions had it crossed out and said "not needed" or something along those lines as well.
 
Curious if you decide to use my fuel map parameters how it ends up feeling for you.

I plan to look back at your post once I do a few miles. I reference your whole thread all the time when anyone asks me about the Rapidbike vs others. I thought that it came set to autotune but definitly want to tweak.
 
Curious if you decide to use my fuel map parameters how it ends up feeling for you.

I'm using your map on my bike and it feels great. I've contemplated buying the same data logger that you used to see where my actual AFR's are at and see what differences there is from bike to bike/location to location. I have sunk too much money into mods on it this year already though, so that might be a next year thing lol.
 
I'm using your map on my bike and it feels great. I've contemplated buying the same data logger that you used to see where my actual AFR's are at and see what differences there is from bike to bike/location to location. I have sunk too much money into mods on it this year already though, so that might be a next year thing lol.

Awesome. If you do install the logger that's only half the battle. I will need to run it through my document to analyze it.
 
Awesome. If you do install the logger that's only half the battle. I will need to run it through my document to analyze it.

Just uploaded the full maps you spent the time to create. Thank you for that. Is it normal that you have to go line by line for you to send the program or is there an easier way? My wife did it for me because I get very frustrated with computer stuff and she went line by line. Took about an hour to fully understand and input it all the she sent the map, shut it all down then reconnected to see if it took...... it errord out. She said her stomach dropped. She shut it back brown and opened it back up and it was all there. Phew, she would have been PIIIISSSED! I haven't been able to ride it yet, taking the kids on a couple mile bike ride first. I hope we got it all correct. One thing that I havnt seen mentioned and sent us on a long internet chase, are we supposed to turn the key on or bike running to do any of this? We did not have the key on or bike run ing while we did everything
 
You should be able to simply open the .mpp file I uploaded and press send map. You can also open it separately and select the map area (like you would in excel) and copy paste it in. You can definitely enter numbers manually it's just very tedious...

Remember that just as important as loading my map values is disabling the auto tune feature or else it will overwrite it.

The key does not need to be on to play with the settings or map. The engine does need to be on for reading present values, RPM, and calibrating.
 
Kuksul08, I'm having some sputtering issues when trying to stay a steady speed between 3500-5000ish. What would you recomend I do, increase or decrease or autotune? Your help is appreciated
 
Kuksul08, I'm having some sputtering issues when trying to stay a steady speed between 3500-5000ish. What would you recomend I do, increase or decrease or autotune? Your help is appreciated

You may need to check the fuel tank line to make sure it didn't get pinched when the tank was reinstalled.
 
Yeah good call on the fuel line.

Also when in doubt you can always load a zero map (all cells are 0) and it should run exactly the same as before. If it doesn't, something is up.
 
Checked the fuel line ....and everything else. Took it all back apart and inspected everything then put it back together. Still had a terrible tremble from 3500-5500 while holding a steady speed . Holdijg a steady speed any rpm between that spectrum. Contacted rapidbike and they were very helpful, they suggested adding fuel at 10% between that spectrum. I did and it helped. I added a little more and no change change. Contacted rapidbike again and they recommended they go in remotely through my computer. I was extremely excited that they could do this and happy with how helpful they were being. I emailed back saying that I would like to do that and gave contact info to make things easier and was flexible to whatever time they could make for me. They responded days later "please dont mess with what you read or see online". end of conversation. I thought we were going to do the remote connect and help do a little more tuning than just a base auto tune. It appears as though we are not So I just said F@# it and turned on auto tune and it is smoothed back out. I kind of got the system because I wanted adjustability. Oh well, auto tune it is.
 
Araitim,
I recently got the 3500-5000 rpm sputter. Thought it might be bad gas since I recently relocated to Italy. I dumped a can of Seafoam in it when I first had symptoms and it seamed to work. Still comes and goes but what I have noticed is that it runs very smooth when cold - 125 to 160 degrees. Once it gets to normal temp (hot now that summer is here), sputter returns.

My starter is almost dead and it will short cycle so bad sometimes that it cycles the power to ECU. My gear indicator will go to null and once I got "errors" message. I'm thinking that it scrambled the RB settings. Will probably dig in software and try Kuksuls map this weekend.
 
I hate when people say "don't listen to what you hear online". Sure, wading through a lot of internet trolls and anecdotal evidence is a skill to be acquired, but there is a lot of good logical information out there. We are lucky to live in this era where you can become an expert in anything if you're willing to read enough and have a good filter.

The guy in Florida is not Rapidbike, just a distributor. He went into my map via remote connection when I first was learning how to use it and went through the map manually changing numbers so that it 'looked' smooth. Based on my own measurements using a wideband O2, whether or not the map "looks" smooth has nothing to do with its actual performance. I have adjacent cells that jump several % and the bike runs perfectly. Sadly we don't have any contacts with the engineers at Rapidbike, which is why I will be using Power Commander in the future since they're based in NV and more accessible.

I will say, no matter how much I played with settings I never had extreme stumbling or what I would consider ridability issues. It was more like trying to perfect something that was only 85% refined. My main issues were inability to maintain constant speed at 4000 RPM, and a dead spot at 6000RPM. Both were fixed with the tune.

I suggest trying the map and settings I uploaded. Especially be sure to change the columns to start at 2%, not 5%. This is probably the biggest factor. Cruising at a constant speed only has the throttle bodies open 3-4%. Worst case you just revert back - nothing is permanent.
 
I dealt with that FL dealer. He didn't want to talk to me because I bought my unit off eBay for much less than he charged (only one in US that sold them at the time). When I provided proof from RB that it was legit, he started talking.

I'll be loading that map. I could have a pinched main fuel line or clogged filter. Had the fuel line issue in the past after install and I've ridden through some dirty African monsoon storms here...left the whole bike caked grey.
 
As always, fantastic info. I truly appreciate your willingness to help. I ordered some aprilia coils yesterday.
I want to see what affect it has on the whole system plus I want to prevent the potential for the catastrophic failure that you read about on the 13 bikes. Now, I have an odd question but...autotune set up from the factor with the base map vs running your map then turning on autotune. Does autotune adjust the mapping back to what it feels it's the best regardless of what the uploaded map is or does it tune on top of the custom map? I feel I'm not explaining it the way that I intend. If you turn on autotune does it go back square 1 and tune off of that?

I hate when people say "don't listen to what you hear online". Sure, wading through a lot of internet trolls and anecdotal evidence is a skill to be acquired, but there is a lot of good logical information out there. We are lucky to live in this era where you can become an expert in anything if you're willing to read enough and have a good filter.

The guy in Florida is not Rapidbike, just a distributor. He went into my map via remote connection when I first was learning how to use it and went through the map manually changing numbers so that it 'looked' smooth. Based on my own measurements using a wideband O2, whether or not the map "looks" smooth has nothing to do with its actual performance. I have adjacent cells that jump several % and the bike runs perfectly. Sadly we don't have any contacts with the engineers at Rapidbike, which is why I will be using Power Commander in the future since they're based in NV and more accessible.

I will say, no matter how much I played with settings I never had extreme stumbling or what I would consider ridability issues. It was more like trying to perfect something that was only 85% refined. My main issues were inability to maintain constant speed at 4000 RPM, and a dead spot at 6000RPM. Both were fixed with the tune.

I suggest trying the map and settings I uploaded. Especially be sure to change the columns to start at 2%, not 5%. This is probably the biggest factor. Cruising at a constant speed only has the throttle bodies open 3-4%. Worst case you just revert back - nothing is permanent.
 
As far as I remember, Autotune ignores any custom map settings and uses it's own algorithms to optimize AF. It modifies on the fly, so there cannot be a static map reference.