Installing Aprilia (Eldor) Coil Packs on Hypermotard/Hyperstrada

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dragoontwo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Messages
311
Location
TN
Thanks to our member cubizme in Vietnam, we may have the answer to keep from frying our ECU, dash, and black box. Do not attempt to pull the black rubber portion that goes over the spark plug ceramic from the Aprilia coil packs! They are bonded on pretty good, and don't have a sufficient barb to hold it on once you slip it over our smooth spark plugs.

I chose to change mine out as a preventative measure. There are plenty out there that haven't or may never suffer from this issue. I sourced my coil packs from ebay using the numbers below.

I had a heck of a time tracking down the stock connector end, but I found it. The stock connector is Bosch 1928404227A linky. I didn't order any, but opted to retrofit the stock connector to the Aprilia coil pack leads without adding any wire. I ordered my 20-17 AWG pins from Corsa Tecnic linky.

Click the pics for full size.

Here is how I went about doing mine. I ordered some Aprilia coil packs P/N: 857084, 857501.


I removed the gas tank, and got to work. Tips for pulling tank.

Remove both coil packs. The connector for the horizontal is connected to a metal tab on the frame. You can see the bare tab form the frame here.


The vertical is zip tied to a plastic piece by the subframe.



The connectors for the coils are quite different. They do share the same color and numbering, though.



First I removed the red protector from the Eldor coil connector, then used a small flat jewelers screwdriver to release the lock, and push the pins out.




Then I carefully pulled the yellow seals back, and snipped the wires at the end of the pins.


Those pins that I just cut off are now the perfect tool for removing the pins from the stock connector. Insert one on both slots by the pin you wish to remove, and push the pin out.



Time to strip the wires on the Eldor coil packs, and put the Tyco junior power timer(JPT) style pins on. I used crimp #4 for the wire, and #1 for the seal.




Line up the pins together for insertion. Yellow(1), Black(2), Red(3).


The yellow seals are a bit tight. I had to pull them through from the front of the connector.

The short lead won't work on the Vertical cylinder. The long lead is good here.



While you're in here it may be a good chance to change spark plugs or your air filter. I placed a small dab of dielectric grease to the end of each coil pack and installed.

I added a zip tie to the female side of the lead as it isn't quite long enough to reach the stock location.


Horizontal coil lead safe, and nestled into its new home.



I hope this helps anyone looking to do something similar. If there are any gaping holes or you think i forgot something, let me know.
 
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Excellent work - thanks for the DIY. Pending some test results this looks like a worthwhile measure for those planning to keep the Hyper long-term.
 
Surely if the recall for the dash has been carried out on a bike, which is FOC then this shouldn't be necessary, good to know for future if a coil pack is required and these are cheaper than ducati part No.
 
Surely if the recall for the dash has been carried out on a bike, which is FOC then this shouldn't be necessary, good to know for future if a coil pack is required and these are cheaper than ducati part No.

Our member cubizme has been struggling with fried dash boards and ECUs lately even though I believe he installed the CAN filter after the service bulletin was released. Afterwards it would appear that while the dashboard was protected, but the stray voltage that the dashboard was soaking up went to the next unprotected part which apparently was the ECU.


His work here which led to my coil replacement.


I don't have all the details of his troubleshooting, maybe he'll chime in with some more details.

I'm not very confident that Ducati will issue a service bulletin for this, as there may not have been enough failures for them to either contract out another coil pack assembly, or engineer a comprehensive fix for the whole bike.

All I know is that there is one of our members that was having repeated component failures, and he may have tracked down the issue that has killed some members bikes here and who knows how many others that don't post about it. If all I need to do is replace 2 coil packs and not have to worry about this failure to keep the bike long term, then its one major failure less to worry about.

I also didn't want to come out and say it right away as I wanted to wait to see what other members thought, but the bike feels a lot more powerful on the whole. I have been riding around in high power with traction control off, and I was pretty comfortable with the performance. Riding around in medium power now feels like high power used to. It was a little noticeable when I had only replaced the front coil without replacing the spark plug. I don't think the new plugs contributed much to the performance, but I believe that the coils did. Even the low power mode doesn't feel as slow and boring as it used to.

The only engine related modification I have done is installing the rapid bike module a while ago. I still have the stock exhaust and air filter.
 
Very nice post, bro. Because I am not good English so I can not write a good language for all of you understand. My bike was dead 2 dashboard, then I installed "CAN filter" and I dead 1 ECU. I very angry with Ducati dealers, but they are ignore me.

I had researched the problems in 6 months, I found the main reasons is BERU coils after time used ( 1 month, 2 months, 6 months or maybe 1 year...) will error and fry the dash (without can filter), and fry the ECU ( with can filter). So the Can filter just only protects the dashboard from TVS/EMI, then the TVS/EMI will go back to kill the ECU . Because the Dashboard and ECU are ends of CANbus system . The Eldor coils used to used on Ducati bike and very good working ( Ducati 1098, street fighter 848,1098 2008-2010).

The interesting information is the Ducati Desmosedici Stradale V4 will use Eldor coils again

Finally, I hope all of you Hyper feel safety about your Hyper
 
images have disappeared

It appears the accompanying images have disappeared. Any chance of reposting them as I am seriously considering this mod.

TIA
Colin

Thanks to our member cubizme in Vietnam, we may have the answer to keep from frying our ECU, dash, and black box. Do not attempt to pull the black rubber portion that goes over the spark plug ceramic from the Aprilia coil packs! They are bonded on pretty good, and don't have a sufficient barb to hold it on once you slip it over our smooth spark plugs.

I chose to change mine out as a preventative measure. There are plenty out there that haven't or may never suffer from this issue. I sourced my coil packs from ebay using the numbers below.

I had a heck of a time tracking down the stock connector end, but I found it. The stock connector is Bosch 1928404227A linky. I didn't order any, but opted to retrofit the stock connector to the Aprilia coil pack leads without adding any wire. I ordered my 20-17 AWG pins from Corsa Tecnic linky.

Click the pics for full size.

Here is how I went about doing mine. I ordered some Aprilia coil packs P/N: 857084, 857501.


I removed the gas tank, and got to work. Tips for pulling tank.

Remove both coil packs. The connector for the horizontal is connected to a metal tab on the frame. You can see the bare tab form the frame here.


The vertical is zip tied to a plastic piece by the subframe.



The connectors for the coils are quite different. They do share the same color and numbering, though.



First I removed the red protector from the Eldor coil connector, then used a small flat jewelers screwdriver to release the lock, and push the pins out.




Then I carefully pulled the yellow seals back, and snipped the wires at the end of the pins.


Those pins that I just cut off are now the perfect tool for removing the pins from the stock connector. Insert one on both slots by the pin you wish to remove, and push the pin out.



Time to strip the wires on the Eldor coil packs, and put the Tyco junior power timer(JPT) style pins on. I used crimp #4 for the wire, and #1 for the seal.




Line up the pins together for insertion. Yellow(1), Black(2), Red(3).


The yellow seals are a bit tight. I had to pull them through from the front of the connector.

The short lead won't work on the Vertical cylinder. The long lead is good here.



While you're in here it may be a good chance to change spark plugs or your air filter. I placed a small dab of dielectric grease to the end of each coil pack and installed.

I added a zip tie to the female side of the lead as it isn't quite long enough to reach the stock location.


Horizontal coil lead safe, and nestled into its new home.



I hope this helps anyone looking to do something similar. If there are any gaping holes or you think i forgot something, let me know.
 
I have the CAN bus fix but I'm still doing this, keeping the bike. If I can't get a hold of member in Vietnam to buy his, I'll do what you did. Thanx for posting it.
 
From where did you source the Eldor coils?

thanks
Colin

I bought mine off of ebay. I bought a set of 4 from someone, and sold the other 2 coils to someone else off the board.

Depending on the price of the coils it can be done without spending too much money, especially if you can split the cost with someone from here.
 
All I can seem to find is used coils out of an RSV4, 2 coils for $84US. On Ebay there doesn't seem to be anything with a matching number. Does anyone know what car would use the same coils?

cheers
 
All I can seem to find is used coils out of an RSV4, 2 coils for $84US. On Ebay there doesn't seem to be anything with a matching number. Does anyone know what car would use the same coils?

cheers

The 11-17 Tuono shares the same coils. I got mine from a 2013 Tuono.

Of course ebay prices are always changing.

Not sure if they are used on any car. Only other option is to order OEM at $80.85 each from AF1 racing. If you order new OEM just get 2 long lead P/N: 857501.
 
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Working my way towards the coils

Just spent the last 1.5 hours working my way towards the coils. Fuel tank is now off and the coil on the vertical cylinder is visible. Next to come off is the airbox, can it be harder than the fricking fuel tank???

Nothing easy so far, even the fairing nuts had been over tightened when the bike went in for its 18000 mile service(last time thy were off). Spent 20 minutes just getting them off, more than half of that trying to find a wrench to hold on to the nuts. Turns out a 15/16" fits, I don't have a 24mm wrench. The 8mm nuts on the fuel pump cover were a challenge and resulted in only 1 skinned knuckle. The 3mm hex heads holding the little plastic panels on the side underneath the rear seat were also unbelievably tight...on and on!

The easiest things to undo were the 5mm hexheads holding the front of the tank. They actually popped right off. Once I got those undone I was able to wiggle the tank off.

I'm glad I have a new air filter on hand cause i don't want to this again for a while!

Now for a cup of coffee and a sugar hit before the airbox removal!
 
wait a minute

I can see both coils now and Ithink I can change the air filter without removing the airbox...whew, that was close!
 
Pulling the tank when changing the air filters and replacing the clutch was way more difficult than it should have been.Guess that's what happens when you stuff 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag. haha
 
I finally received my second Aprilia coil yesterday and lo and behold it has a lead about half the length of the other one.

The longer lead one is long enough for either cylinder but the other one will require some attention. I'm thinking I will snip the lead off one of the old Bera coils and splice it on to the short Aprilia one and use it on the vertical cylinder as that's more out of the weather, so to speak. Is it important that both coil leads be of equal length? I bought some of these, http://tinyurl.com/ydxttnpx and am eager to try them out.

Thanks to all for the help!
 
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