Which programmer?

Mine looked about that dirty when I was in doing the 18k service. It's just oil depositing on the intake from the crankcase ventilation and exhaust recirculation.

I have noticed on other bikes that when I cleaned the idle circuit it ran way better. Even a tiny amount of gunk on the tiny orifice can affect the flow and make it run weird.

Interested to see what you find out... you sure are tearing it apart!

Got my tank off this weekend. MWR filter window was cracked and very grimy. Stock filter was also very grimy. My main fuel line still had some slight kinks in it from my EVO install. I ordered a new fuel line and will clean/ replace air filters. Have a DP filter housing I purchased from a member on this site.

I'll check the plugs but everything looks secure. I'm starting to hear more and more horror stories about local fuel and bikes. Maybe I'll take a shot at cleaning the injectors while she's opened up.

gatdammit said:

Got my tank off this weekend. MWR filter window was cracked and very grimy. Stock filter was also very grimy. My main fuel line still had some slight kinks in it from my EVO install. I ordered a new fuel line and will clean/ replace air filters. Have a DP filter housing I purchased from a member on this site.

I'll check the plugs but everything looks secure. I'm starting to hear more and more horror stories about local fuel and bikes. Maybe I'll take a shot at cleaning the injectors while she's opened up.

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Considering using the sprint filter too? I liked the fact it was washable and a dry filter, so no worry of having too much or too little filter oil.

Pretty sure I have some kind of washable filter. Think the MWR kit came with a replacement stocker. I have to improvise the MWR filter that ripped...

I'm using the BMC and clesned it when I did the throttle bodies. I want to try the sprinter filter of I switch to the 2nd generation Starace housing. I plan on pulling the tank off today and and inspecting the coil wiring. If it's good then i plan on putting the old coils back in to see what happens. I cant believe there is no fuel filter on these bikes. Am I missing something? Is it hidden in an area I havnt seen? I would also like to pull the fuel line off the injectors to see if there is something on the line but have tried a couple times and dont want to break the injectors.

Ok. So, over the weekend I swapped the old coils back in and it's still acting up. Yesterday it hit me, look at what rapidbike set the tuner too after the first 100mile learning ride then look at what auto tune wants in addition to that. The tech at rapidbike set #2 to -8 throughout most of the rpm range and the auto tune wants another-8 pulled out. The auto tune is set to +/-8 max adjustments so.... this means that the o2 sensor on #2 is seeing a very rich condition and trying to back off the fuel to accommodate. Which meeeeeeanss, #2 isnt firing all the time. I just replaced the plugs less than 1000 miles ago with new plugs ordered directly from NGK so it seems funny that it potentially went bad that quickly. I dont think it is the cool since I tried 2 different coils and at one point unturned the o2 sensors off through the rapidbike, so that eliminated the o2 being the issue. What are your thoughts?

Except that I turned auto tune off when I loaded Kuk's map. Thought you did, as well?

gatdammit said:

Except that I turned auto tune off when I loaded Kuk's map. Thought you did, as well?

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I did turn off autotune when I did the Kuk map but turned it back on when the problems started. Then the rapidbike tech also made sure it was on to log what is coming out of the exhaust. It seems like I'm not getting consistent spark. I swapped the old coil back in hoping it was the coil but I'm thinking it's a plug or something more deep.

I grabbed the laser digital thermometer (from the kids. they use it to mess with the cats) tonight to see the temp difference between the 2 cylinders. After a few min the front header was running at about 500-600°(according to the meter, right at the head) and the rear cylinder was running about 140-160°f in the same location. It must be the plug or something associated with the spark(but not the coil, I tried a different one)

Clever!

Promising. It's gotta be digital or sensor related. Mine runs great until up to operating temp, then the misfires/ bogging starts.